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Tarot Wall
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Constant Gardener (aka the Pursuit of Fappiness), The S 
Devil, The S 
Earth Angel S 
Fapanese Direct S 
Fool, The S 
Goat F***er S 
Hanged Man, The S 
Horse, The T,S 
Lust S 
Magician, The T,S 
S.I.N. T 
Tower, The S 
Wheel of Fortune S 

The Horse 

YDS: 5.10d French: 6b+ Ewbanks: 21 UIAA: VII+ ZA: 21 British: E3 5b

Type:  Trad, Sport, 1 pitch, 60'
Original:  YDS: 5.11a French: 6c Ewbanks: 22 UIAA: VII+ ZA: 22 British: E3 5c [details]
FA: Richard Rossiter and Pebby Johns, 2005
New Route: Yes
Page Views: 1,417
Submitted By: Richard Rossiter on Jul 6, 2005

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Jason Shatek on the fun cracks above the roof.

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  • Description 

    This is the second route from the right on Tarot Wall. Start about 8' right of Wheel of Fortune at the left end of the low roof band. Look for a lone bolt at the level of the first roof. You'll be so glad that bolt is there. Climb through the roof (crux) and follow a nice crack system to a big block at the top where it is easy to reach left and clip the ring anchors. This is the best gear route at Avalon.


    There is a single bolt about 10 feet off the ground. Gear up to 2" can be used from there to a 2-bolt anchor with rings at the top. Six placements should be adequate for most leaders.

    Photos of The Horse Slideshow Add Photo
    Rock Climbing Photo: Jason Shatek starting the pumpy crux moves.
    Jason Shatek starting the pumpy crux moves.
    Rock Climbing Photo: Jason Shatek pulling through the final crux move.
    Jason Shatek pulling through the final crux move.
    Rock Climbing Photo: The Horse.  The route is right of Wheel of Fortune...
    BETA PHOTO: The Horse. The route is right of Wheel of Fortune...

    Comments on The Horse Add Comment
    Show which comments
    By Richard Rossiter
    Jul 8, 2005
    rating: 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c

    In retrospect, I think the route is probably about 5.11a. When you lead a new line for the first time it always seems more difficult than it actually is. The hardest move is probably getting stood up at the lip of the roof. Above this it is maybe 5.10a on killer jams and 5.9 after that. Climb all the way to a large (and stable) perched block at the level of the descending rings. Reach left and you have it. The Horse is fun. I can't wait to do it again.

    The route is named for the Knight of Cups in the Tarot, who rides a great white stallion above the cresting waves of a vast sea and holds the Grail in his outreaching arms.
    By Ron Olsen
    From: Boulder, CO
    Jul 22, 2005
    rating: 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c

    We top-roped the route from the anchor on Wheel of Fortune. The moves past the bolt at the initial overhang were pumpy and hard to figure out. The cracks above the overhang were much easier. They felt like 5.8, but we were top-roping, not leading.
    By Tony B
    From: Around Boulder, CO
    Jul 23, 2005
    rating: 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b

    Not a bad route, and really not too hard. I don't know about 5.11... this seemed no harder than the starting move of the roof to the right (rated 10c).
    By Doug Lintz
    From: Kearney, NE
    Sep 30, 2008

    Today I inadvertently broke off a 70 lb. chunk that was the left side of the low starting jugs/first ledge. The remaining portion looks solid, but then again I thought the left side would hold my weight as well.
    By Dirk Diggler
    From: Boulder, Colorado
    Dec 10, 2015
    rating: 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b

    Kind of dirty in October '15. Gear is good enough. Go for it!

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