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The Horcrux 

YDS: 5.13c French: 8a+ Ewbanks: 30 UIAA: X- ZA: 31 British: E7 7a

   
Type:  Sport, 1 pitch, 50'
Original:  YDS: 5.13c French: 8a+ Ewbanks: 30 UIAA: X- ZA: 31 British: E7 7a [details]
FA: Lee Hansche 6/4/15
New Route: Yes
Page Views: 1,191
Submitted By: lee hansche on Jun 4, 2015

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (3)
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This photo captures to position of the route... It...

Description 

One of the most stunning features I have ever climbed which tops out to a picturesque New Hampshire mountain scene. The line was pointed out to me many years ago by a friend and I never forgot about it. A perfect corner with one black wall that is nearly featureless and dead vertical and one white wall that is steep and has decent holds but only just enough.

The route can be broken in to 3 sections:
-It starts with a big move to a sloping ledge and a mantle to a no hand rest followed by a tricky section past a big blob feature and in to another stem that can be no hands but you will want a hand on just in case ;)
-The business involves navigating the blankness that is the middle section of the corner. A smattering of micro holds, some that are just crystals, allow you to (just barely) connect the dots through to the last clip and the base of...
-The final boulder problem which is only a few moves long isn't too bad when working the route but turned out to be a redpoint crux for me. Indistinct crystaly holds that require precision and solid body tension get you to the thank god jug and the anchors. Top it out, sit on the cliff edge and take in the view. It's stunning.

The grade: I am proposing the grade based on climbing math (5.12a/b + v8 + v4/5 = 5.13c) haha and the amount of effort it took me (as many attempts as I've ever put in on anything over many days and lots of hanging around figuring things out). I'd love input from folks who have a good bit of experience on hard granite routes of this style.

The Name: Comes from Harry Potter. A Horcrux is a powerful object in which a Dark wizard or witch has hidden a fragment of his or her soul for the purpose of attaining immortality. I found this to be fitting on so many levels. I certainly left a piece of my soul in this route and I practice the projection of wizardry in climbing.
And if you want the funny version, the crux was kind of a whore haha.

Location 

About 30ft to the left of Fern Crack look for the Amazingly beautiful corner... It's hard to miss.

Protection 

5 bolts to a two bolt anchor.


Photos of The Horcrux Slideshow Add Photo
Rock Climbing Photo: ...
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Rock Climbing Photo: My hands after one of my many failed attempts... T...
My hands after one of my many failed attempts... T...
Rock Climbing Photo: I dug up this shot of the corner that is now The H...
I dug up this shot of the corner that is now The H...

Comments on The Horcrux Add Comment
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By matt major
Jun 4, 2015

Congratz Lee what an undertaking!
By matthewWallace
From: Sandwich, NH
Jun 5, 2015

Nice work Lee! Good to see all that hard work and perseverance has paid off for you!!
By Jay Knower
Administrator
From: Campton, NH
Jun 5, 2015

Congrats Lee for sending one of the "last great problems" in Waterville. Proud!
By Joe M.
Administrator
Jun 5, 2015

Congrats, looks like an awesome route!
By Tom Bowker
From: somewhere in the USA
Jun 5, 2015

Nice work Lee! That corner is as beautiful as any I've ever seen. My on and off TR attempts on it were futile and I knew I wasn't worthy. spied the bolts and red tag last spring and wondered who. 4 star climbing for sure!
By lee hansche
Administrator
From: goffstown, nh
Jun 5, 2015

Thanks all for your congrats.
Extra thanks to you Tom for your approval, I was hoping to run in to you out there and chat with you about it since you are "the man" out there. It is important for me to not step on the toes of my elders. I just tried my best to do it in good style.
I have the utmost reverence for this climb.
By Tim Waystrong
From: New Hampshire
Jun 15, 2015

YEAH LEE!!!!!
By Eli
From: Lives in a truck
Jun 18, 2015

Badass! Also fantastic name!
By Christian Prellwitz
From: Telluride, CO
3 days ago

Lee--

Do you have any videos/additional photos of you on the route? This route definitely has me intrigued and I'm considering trying it this Fall when I'm back in NH. I'm just curious to see more of what the climbing is like.

Thanks!

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