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The Hook 

YDS: 5.8 French: 5b Ewbanks: 16 UIAA: VI- ZA: 15 British: HVS 4c R

Type:  Trad, 4 pitches, 400'
Original:  YDS: 5.8 French: 5b Ewbanks: 16 UIAA: VI- ZA: 15 British: HVS 4c R [details]
FA: Fred Beckey & Layton Kor '61
Page Views: 4,512
Submitted By: Peter Gram on Jun 22, 2004

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (91)
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The Hook

Gate Buttress Area Recreational Lease: Climbs on Church Buttress above vault remain closed MORE INFO >>>


The Hook starts a few pitches off the ground, with a variety of starts possible. The climb protects pretty well, but an ugly swinging fall is possible on the slabby crux traverse after leaving the crack. To approach the Hook, I recommend the following:

P1) Bushwhack Crack's first pitch, 5.8

P2) Make a couple of moves from the chains, then traverse left on big footholds until the first crack that accepts gear. Follow this up to a fixed anchor. 5.6

P3) The Hook - climb the beautiful flake with huge holds inside it. At the top, traverse right to either the 2nd or 3rd bolt on the Hook Variation, depending on what level you traverse. Work the slab up to another fixed anchor. 5.8

P4) Step right into an easy water trough/crack. It takes small gear well, and ends on a low angle shelf 100 feet up.5.5

Descent) After P3, 3 one rope raps following the fixed anchors from the way up gets you to the ground. From P4, downclimb easy ledges to a rap off of a horn. One rope gets you down to the Callitwhatyouplease rappel station. Another one rope rap in the gully with some easy downclimbing gets you back to the ground.


Standard Rack. Nothing big is needed even though it appears that way from below.

Photos of The Hook Slideshow Add Photo
Rock Climbing Photo: Face moves between leaving the crack and reaching ...
BETA PHOTO: Face moves between leaving the crack and reaching ...
Rock Climbing Photo: The Hook!
The Hook!
Rock Climbing Photo: Pitch 1, 2 and 3 of The Hook.
BETA PHOTO: Pitch 1, 2 and 3 of The Hook.
Rock Climbing Photo: Second pitch of The Hook.  The easier wide crack.
Second pitch of The Hook. The easier wide crack.
Rock Climbing Photo: The Hook Pitch
The Hook Pitch
Rock Climbing Photo: Stranger on The Hook
Stranger on The Hook
Rock Climbing Photo: Following the fun crack on P2
Following the fun crack on P2
Rock Climbing Photo: Mid hook
Mid hook
Rock Climbing Photo: Boissal using modern gear to protect the Hook but ...
BETA PHOTO: Boissal using modern gear to protect the Hook but ...
Rock Climbing Photo: Maura climbing the slab to the belay after "T...
Maura climbing the slab to the belay after "T...
Rock Climbing Photo: Third shot of Tyson on the Hook's face.
Third shot of Tyson on the Hook's face.
Rock Climbing Photo: Tyson halfway through the face sequence.
Tyson halfway through the face sequence.
Rock Climbing Photo: Tyson on the start of the face.
Tyson on the start of the face.

Comments on The Hook Add Comment
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Comments displayed oldest to newestSkip Ahead to the Most Recent Dated Aug 11, 2016
By Peter Gram
From: Cupertino, CA
Jun 22, 2004

Just like the Hook Variation, the other 2 possible approaches to this climb are Schoolroom or Schoolroom Direct.
By Mark Michaels
From: Draper, UT
Jun 24, 2004

Beckey and Kor, say no more!!!
By kBobby Hanson
From: Spokane, WA
Dec 1, 2004
rating: 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c

This linkup with Bushwhack is one of my favorites. As Peter said in his description, you can traverse to either the 2nd or 3rd bolt on the variation. I strongly recommond traversing to the 3rd bolt. It may not seem like it from down below, but this traverse is more straight-forward than the lower one. Also, you get the benefit of climbing the entire flake before jumping out onto the slab.

A #3 camalot is handy for the top of the flake.
By Nathan Fisher
Jun 13, 2005
rating: 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c

Good, but just sooooo short. If you decide to do the 2nd pitch, one can descent off of The Hook Direct's anchors. They are west of the finish along the slab. One 70m rope will barely get you to the base of The Hook.
By kBobby Hanson
From: Spokane, WA
Jul 3, 2005
rating: 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c

I think the ``R'' is from the original state of the route: sans bolts. As I said before, go to the top of the flake before traversing, it is very nice.
By vincent pierce
Sep 8, 2005
rating: 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c

Do you like to layback up great rock with super good stances to place pro? Of course you do! Really fun but alas, it ends so quickly. 3 stars if it were longer. Still... the slab traverse out of the flake and the finish up the hook variaton is quality. Don't let the "R" rating keep you from doing it. It's only 10' or so from the flake to the bolt.
By Shaun Greene
Oct 9, 2006

This line is great!! It is worth doing this climb just for the sequence of moves on the upper slab. Definately do the slab moves to the third bolt!! The moves are all there with the correct foot sequence.
By bsmoot
Nov 17, 2007

Vincent Pierce said:

"10' or so from the flake to the bolt."

Sometime in the 90's I think, this bolt was added. In the old days, the bolt wasn't there... very sad.
By Greg Gavin
From: SLC, UT
Dec 2, 2009
rating: 5.8- 5b 16 VI- 14 VS 4c R

Its 10' to the 2nd bolt which would make you traverse straight sideways setting your rope into a hellish scenario. 20' up and right to the last bolt before the chains makes for a very committing climb.
By Shaft
From: Salt Lake City
Dec 4, 2009
rating: 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c

The route is too short for the rope drag to be heinous, I have never considered traversing over to the the bolt line early, why would you do that?

I skipped the bolt last time and still didn't think it was that scary and I am a big wuss, the big swing might suck though.

Last time we were up there, I did see someone nearly fall off the move gaining the slab over the top of the hook flake, not going to mention any names but their name starts with B and rhymes with Ryan and they muttered something about slick new shoes...... (Not bsmoot)
By Spencer Weiler
From: Salt Lake city
Jun 16, 2011

I accessed the hook via a slab traverse from bushwack crack's 2nd pitch. There is one bolt about 10 feet directly to the left of the crack that allows a mild slab section that ends right at the hook's anchors. I don't think this is the standard way but it was fun nonetheless.
By Kevin MP
From: Redmond, OR
Nov 19, 2013

It is possible to climb all the way to the base of The Hook in one pitch from Bushwack by linking P1 and P2 in the description here, albeit with some rope drag towards the end(possible avoided by climbing around the left side of a few bushes near Bushwack's first belay. This is one of those climbs that is super quality but just ends too soon!
By Kyle Goupil
From: SLC, UT
May 1, 2015
rating: 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b

In my humble opinion the hook pitch is definitely more like 5.7, I wouldn't give it an R rating either.

I linked it with the first two pitches of schoolroom, doing the 5.7r off the deck. Fun little after work jaunt .
By LCC-Climber
May 5, 2015

The "R" rating was given before the retro-bolting of this classic. Beckey and Kor did the route from the end of the flake to the belay w/o placing bolts. They were unfortunately added later as part of the route to the climber's right. Nothing R about this route now. Shame.
By Boissal
From: Small Lake, UT
May 5, 2015
rating: 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c

The bolt is technically not part of the route which gives you an even better reason not to clip it and be as badass as Beckey/Kor...
By Brian Watson
Oct 29, 2015

Great route! we did P1 as schoolroom direct combined with schoolroom 2nd pitch (in one long pitch) was a great combination.
By Kerrie Neal 1
Jun 10, 2016

An unfortunate series of events and a really really bad night led to the loss of a 70m camouflage rope
If retrieved please call/text 443-535-3524
By Ally Lamb
From: Salt Lake City, UT
Aug 11, 2016

The fixed anchors at the top of the second pitch (just before the hook) only contain one set of chains and not rap ring or chains on the other bolt. When rapping from the third set of anchors, just before the trough pitch we just rapped down to the trees just above the anchors of bushwack pitch one and utilized a previously slung tree (just barely long enough with a 70m) and then rapped/short roped down to the bushwack anchors. I will add chains to the second anchor or another webbing sling and ring to the tree next time I am up there--if and when that is--otherwise it would make the descent much easier if you bring a sling and rings to leave when you climb it!

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