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Central Gully
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The Holy Flail 

YDS: 5.11b French: 6c Ewbanks: 23 UIAA: VIII- ZA: 23 British: E3 5c R

   
Type:  Sport, 1 pitch, 30'
Original:  YDS: 5.11b French: 6c Ewbanks: 23 UIAA: VIII- ZA: 23 British: E3 5c R [details]
FA: Chris Dornsife & Chazz Spaeth
Page Views: 49
Submitted By: Refuge Jared on Sep 17, 2016

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Description 

Vertical route starting run out with its first bolt a fair distance above a high ledge. Well protected afterward, wandering Right then Left along 6 bolts to open cold shuts at the anchor. An 11c variation goes from the 3rd bolt straight up through one more bolt to the anchor, permitting somewhat longer falls. Lower off.

Location 

The Holy Flail is found on the Right side of the Central Gully as you near the bottom. It's a run out climb with its first bolt starting a fair distance above a high ledge. It appears just after a diagonal gap in the wall and just before Lower Chambers, two routes that climb diagonally Right to a set of open cold shuts.

Protection 

6 bolts wander Right then Left again to open cold shuts for anchors. 11c variation goes through one more bolt straight up toward the anchor after the 3rd bolt--a total of 4 bolts.


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