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The Hole Traverse 

YDS: 5.5 French: 4b Ewbanks: 13 UIAA: IV+ ZA: 11 British: MS 4a PG13

   
Type:  Trad, 2 pitches, 120'
Original:  YDS: 5.5 French: 4b Ewbanks: 13 UIAA: IV+ ZA: 11 British: MS 4a PG13 [details]
FA: Dick & Karen Traverse July 1993
Page Views: 92
Submitted By: Robert Hall on Jun 5, 2016

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BETA PHOTO: Sketch/Topo for START of "The Hole Traverse&q...

Description 

This route climbs up the clean rock just to the left of a wide streak of dark lichen & moss. The bolts, especially the first, are difficult to see. Bolts are 5/16-inch stainless steel.

To me, Pitch 2 seems a bit contrived, but Pitch 1 is some of the nicest friction on the slab and a great alternative start to 4-Holes.

Start below, and a few feet left of, the small arching flake (gear possible). Friction directly up the slab, passing a 5/16-inch SS bolt about 30-35 ft up. A second bolt is reached about 10 feet below the flake of "4-Holes".
The FA party belayed here and then stepped right several feet and up then back left and up on a line of holes of dike-like appearance and then finished on "4-Holes".

Location 

START- On the Carpet Slab, about 30-35 ft left of Carpet Slabber. There is an arching flake about 5-8 ft up the slab just to the right of where the route starts at some solution pockets (NOT the "4-Holes pockets", which are still 30 ft to the left.)

Protection 

Draws for the bolts, small cam for the lower flake if desired, and larger cam(s) for belay at the higher, much larger flake...or just use the dbl bolt anchor of 4-Holes.


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