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Hole, Lizard Head Variation, The T 
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The Hole, Lizard Head Variation 

YDS: 5.6 French: 4c Ewbanks: 14 UIAA: V ZA: 12 British: S 4b

Type:  Trad, Alpine, 1 pitch, 50'
Original:  YDS: 5.6 French: 4c Ewbanks: 14 UIAA: V ZA: 12 British: S 4b [details]
Page Views: 930
Submitted By: M LaViolette Jr. on May 29, 2012

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (4)
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BETA PHOTO: The Hole and Lizard Head Variation. The Hole (5.8...


Start up the right facing corner or the face left of the white spot to a horizontal crack just below a bulge. Pull up onto the bulge to a good stance and then move slighty left to a vertical crack which takes you to a leftward rising diagonal. Continue straight up from here to another prominent horizontal. Two feet above this is "the hole". From here traverse the horizontal leftwards for a few moves to a good stance below a vertical crack which will take you up to a shelf on the left of the obvious triangular block. It's a good idea to move along the shelf to the right side of the block here and place a piece and extend it with a double length sling to help keep the rope out of the crack, but I would recommend not putting anything under the triangle block. Once at the shelf climb up one more short 5 foot vertical crack to the left of the triangle and belay at a shelf just below the top.


This starts at the white spot and right facing corner 15 feet right of The Wright Wrong Chimney.


Good gear throughout, mostly medium sized pieces.

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By M LaViolette Jr.
From: The Past
May 29, 2012

I think this is the proper line of Lizard Head Variation, the description I had was a little vague and didn't mention the left crack leading up to the triangle. This was the path that made the most sense at the time and it did feel about 5.6ish. From "the hole" continue straight up the crack leading to the right of the triangle block to finish the actual route The Hole (5.8). Either way both routes are really good and would probably see plenty of traffic if there wasn't such a hike to get to them.
By Nolan Huther
From: Clarkson University
Jul 4, 2017

I was disappointed to not do The Hole's standard line since it was wet, but this variation was dry and it was full-value 5.6 climbing for sure! Very entertaining climb for myself, and for hikers that had crowded on a viewpoint at the trail to watch...

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