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Highlander, The S 

The Highlander 

YDS: 5.12a French: 7a+ Ewbanks: 25 UIAA: VIII+ ZA: 25 British: E5 6a

Type:  Sport, 1 pitch, 60'
Original:  YDS: 5.12a French: 7a+ Ewbanks: 25 UIAA: VIII+ ZA: 25 British: E5 6a [details]
FA: Shane Willet, Paul Moore, Steve Habovstack, 1983
Season: any
Page Views: 2,157
Submitted By: steve edwards on Sep 29, 2008

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (24)
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The Highlander.


Steep, sequential, and continuous while it lasts. Another sublime quartzite outing that, like most of the sport climbs in Big, would be a five-star route if it were twice the length.


Third class about 40' up to the start via ramps on the right of the route. There is a small ledge and a belay bolt. It's best to leave your pack on the ground.


5 bolts

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Rock Climbing Photo: August 16, 2015
August 16, 2015

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By mattjbudd
From: West Valley, UT
May 17, 2010
rating: 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a

Great and fun route. It is difficult to find the right holds.
By Boissal
From: Small Lake, UT
Jun 4, 2010
rating: 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a

There's a loose and very chalked (or is it Xed) foot going from the 3rd to 4th bolt. Feels like it will come out anytime, beware.
A few other holds feel hollow in the typical BCC choss way.
Fun line, pumpy and hard to read with lots of sucker holds. Dial the sequence and punch it skipping about 1/2 of the chalked spots.
By Cowboy Roy
From: SLC, UT
Aug 10, 2011
rating: 5.12- 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a

Super fun route packs a good burn for such a short route, the lose foothold mentioned in previous posts is still there. definitely super loose and big enough to be a concern. put a long sling up for the crux clip
By Spencer Weiler
From: Salt Lake city
May 2, 2012

The start was the crux for me. Big, flat, downleaning sloper holds on a overhanging wall isn't easy. The book says the top is the 12a section but I guess I didn't think it was all that bad. I kind of felt like I was cheating using the jugs right of the last bolt, but that's where the chalk was.
By Sam Miller
From: salt lake city, UT
Jul 9, 2012

Super cool climb, really cool atmosphere. Go in the morning or late evening.
By Sam Miller
From: salt lake city, UT
Jul 9, 2012

Does anyone know what the route on the face to the left is? It's not in the book and it looks ridiculously hard.
By Donovan Allen
From: Subaru
Aug 16, 2015
rating: 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a

Amazing route!! I found the lower half to be the physical crux. 4th bolt to the chains was the redpoint crux for me. Don't let the grade scare you away, nothing harder than V3 moves the whole way up.
By Eric Chabot
From: Salt Lake City, UT
Sep 5, 2016

Helmets not a bad idea on this route. I kicked off a small rock (half brick size) which smashed into the slab and bounced off my belayer, who was luckily unharmed.

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