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The Higher, Harder One 

YDS: 5.12a French: 7a+ Ewbanks: 25 UIAA: VIII+ ZA: 25 British: E5 6a

Type:  Sport
Original:  YDS: 5.12a French: 7a+ Ewbanks: 25 UIAA: VIII+ ZA: 25 British: E5 6a [details]
FA: Darren Knezek, Bill Boyle
Page Views: 1,873
Submitted By: Christian "crisco" Burrell on May 21, 2008

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climbing THE HIGHER HARDER ONE 5.12a


Got on this before I knew which route was which. I intended to do Simple Simon but the big starting holds on this made me think I was on Simon. But the route just kept going and had moves that were way harder than 11b. I was really enjoying the sequences though so I decided to just climb it. Granted it took a few more tries..


The big jugs to the left of the Simple Simon start and just keep going...and going...


All bolts

Photos of The Higher, Harder One Slideshow Add Photo
Rock Climbing Photo: First 5 or so bolts are easier than it gets more d...
First 5 or so bolts are easier than it gets more d...

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By Darren Knezek
May 22, 2008
rating: 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a

The FA was Darren Knezek and Bill Boyle. I originally climbed to the left from the anchors of Simple Simon using nuts and cams and put the anchors halfway up the wall. Called it the High, Hard One and rated it 5.11b. The old anchors stopped right in the middle of the climbing. A few years later Boyle wanted to extend the route up to the top of the wall as well as the climb to the left called Everest 101. I agreed as we both thought the routes should stop where the climbing stops and the grades went from the 5.11's to the 5.12's. Even though I put it up, I think its the best of the 12a's here on The Bad Bananas Wall. A really neat pumpy start followed by a tricky rest and then a steep powerful ending.
By Aaron Child
Nov 15, 2008

Awesome route! Very cool movement at the end. Pumpy yet very enjoyable start
By KipHenrie
From: Farmington, utah
Feb 23, 2010
rating: 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a

Absolutely fabulous route with a tough first 4 bolts then lets up to a tedious rest, then up thru the last crux. Endurance and technical climbing with some nice delicate liebacks and some good slopers. Thanks DK for an awesome climb. My fav on the wall and well, higher and harder than the left 2 12a's.
By Tyler Taggart
Jun 16, 2015

Loved this route. Beautiful movement through the whole route. Definite upper and lower crux. Climbs on beautiful big jugs and a few gnarly sidepulls, huge moves throughout. Look for a fun drop knee at the beginning, a horizontal hand jam mid way for a good rest, and have fun pulling on the tiny crimp at the top that's just good enough to through to the sloppy 2-finger pocket.

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