REI Community
5. Romance Novels
Routes Sorted
L to R R to L Alpha
Going Steady TR 
Hidden Target, The TR 
Middlemarch TR 
New York to Dallas 33 TR 
Night Smoke TR 
Pride and Prejudice TR 
Vanity Fair TR 
When Two Paths Meet TR 

The Hidden Target 

YDS: 5.8 French: 5b Ewbanks: 16 UIAA: VI- ZA: 15 British: HVS 4c

   
Type:  TR, 1 pitch, 80'
Original:  YDS: 5.8 French: 5b Ewbanks: 16 UIAA: VI- ZA: 15 British: HVS 4c [details]
FA: TR Ken Roberts + Karel Hrbacek
Page Views: 42
Submitted By: kenr on Dec 1, 2016

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BETA PHOTO: Romance Novels - Left (SW) side: A. Middlemarch C....

Description 

Interesting moves in a variety of rock situations.

Up into the dihedral with crack and flake, but instead of continuing up that to the roof, step left to the edge of left face of the dihedral, then over that and left up the face to a big ledge. Up the left side of the face (just right of big right-facing corner) to the top.
. . Variation (one 5.10b move): up the center right of upper face to top.

warning: The rock on and around this route has not been climbed much yet, and much of the rock is still breakable and loose -- so the belayer and other people should stand far away from underneath the climber - (and if possible, behind a large tree).

. . . (Lots of vegetation on this rock as of 2016. Be prepared when climbing to navigate around protruding trees and branches, and dealing with holds slippery with grass, lichen, moss, dirt).

Location 

About 10-12 feet left of arete in center (lowest point) of main (SW) side of sector, below left from a 2.5ft-deep dihedral / open book just above, just below a wide book somewhat L-facting, with flake and 1-2-inch crack which leads up to a 1.5-ft-deep roof.

- - > See on this Photo

. . . . or on this Photo

Protection 

For ideas to set up Top-Rope, see the Description of this Romance Novels sector .

Protection for Trad leading is unknown and likely inadequate.


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