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Buttress of Cracks - Left Side
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The Hernia 

YDS: 5.8 French: 5b Ewbanks: 16 UIAA: VI- ZA: 15 British: HVS 4c

Type:  Trad, 1 pitch, 100'
Original:  YDS: 5.8 French: 5b Ewbanks: 16 UIAA: VI- ZA: 15 British: HVS 4c [details]
FA: Lee Harrell and S. Wood, August 1967
Page Views: 6,962
Submitted By: C Miller on Jan 20, 2006

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (123)
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Just after pulling the crux (slightly insecure) wi...


Starts up a right-facing flake or directly up the face to reach a finger crack at the base of a large hollow-sounding flake. Continue past the flake and over a small overlap/roof to a flared section (small gear in the back) and finish up a flake system with incut face holds.

Not your typical 5.8 route as it offers a wide variety of climbing styles and is sure to hold your attention throughout.


Gear to 3" including wires, 2 bolt anchor/rap

Photos of The Hernia Slideshow Add Photo
Rock Climbing Photo: Old guys rule! Photo by Scott Nomi.
Old guys rule! Photo by Scott Nomi.
Rock Climbing Photo: An awkward and insecure move from the right will g...
An awkward and insecure move from the right will g...
Rock Climbing Photo: Ivan approaching and protecting one of the crux mo...
Ivan approaching and protecting one of the crux mo...
Rock Climbing Photo: Ivan on easier ground about 30' up.
Ivan on easier ground about 30' up.
Rock Climbing Photo: Looking up at the crux
Looking up at the crux

Comments on The Hernia Add Comment
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Comments displayed oldest to newestSkip Ahead to the Most Recent Dated Aug 21, 2017
By Paul Rezucha
From: Alameda
Jun 6, 2006

The Hernia is a good fun climb with several hard sections. Getting off the ground gets you thinking, getting into the left facing flake above is awkward and insecure, and the upper face past the bolt is a bit intimidating. Rap anchors send you directly over Winter Solstice (11c) for a good look at nothing and works as a great top rope for this smear fest of a route.
By Bill Olszewski
From: Colorado Springs, CO
Jul 25, 2007

This is a fantastic climb for the grade. The crux (shifting from the right-arching crack to a left-facing lieback on rounded holds) was heady and sustained but rewards the leader with a bomber rest afterwards. I mostly led this with aliens - very few cam placements over .75 Camelot.
By 858jason
May 5, 2008
rating: 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c

Always interesting to find out what others have used for gear. I found placements for a 1, 2, and 3 Camalot.
By James R. Arnold
Apr 21, 2009

This was a very nice route and 5.8 seems like a reasonable grade. We did do the bolted face extension and it seemed harder than the 10a given in the guidebook. Especially when part of the best right handhold broke off. Perhaps it has gotten harder over time.
By mmurduff Mic
Jul 11, 2009

I would give this route 2 stars. Excellent representation of 5.8 with a fantastic finish. USed tri-cams, nuts, #3 and others.
By Indira Lower
Aug 1, 2011

I loved this climb, It's good for the person who is a bit more intimidated by a roof, because this one is easy to get over. I suggest you protect just below and then just go over, protect after you're up. If you commit to the move it's more secure to just get over it to a better hold first ( don't bother placing under the roof).
By RockyR
From: Encinitas, CA
Aug 4, 2011

Nice fun route considering it has been raining and the rocks were a bit wet. The roof was definitely a fun section even on top rope. Thanks to Clark Jacobs and Russell Romero for showing us around. Even w/ the torrential rain and t-storms, we still managed to get a few climbs in! What a fun weekend! :)
By The Ruin-er
From: CA
Jun 3, 2012
rating: 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c

Bill said it.
By Yacov
Jun 10, 2013

BETA - Once pulling over the crux (bulge), you'll find a perfect green camelot (.75) placement.
By Andy Laakmann
Site Landlord
From: Bend, OR
Oct 4, 2013
rating: 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c

Fun. The giant, hollow sounding flake before the roof sure is creepy though.
By Addem Bursh
Feb 25, 2014

I found an offset metolius jammed in the back of the flared crack of the roof gave me the calmz to do it.
By Kent Rogers
From: Beaver, PA
Apr 24, 2016

Club Sandwich 5.10d R Begin with a 5.10 run out to reach a bolt just right of The Hernia, then climb a flake system up and left to join The Hernia at its crux. Pro: 0.5 to 3 inches. FA: Chongo Brogers, 1989 w/out the bolt.
By Ryan Strickland
From: Idyllwild, CA
Apr 28, 2016

When this route was originally done, it was only 5.6. Since then a block fell off the climb, forming the crux roof. The block that fell is still at the base of the route; you can see old pin scars on it!
By Fernando Cal
From: Long Beach, CA
Aug 21, 2017
rating: 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c

Fun climb, protects well (didnt use the flakes), used almost full rack and ran out the top a bit. Roof section is well protected. Gets some shade at the bottom early in the morning.

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