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The Henchman 

YDS: 5.11a French: 6c Ewbanks: 22 UIAA: VII+ ZA: 22 British: E3 5c PG13

   
Type:  Trad, 80'
Original:  YDS: 5.11a French: 6c Ewbanks: 22 UIAA: VII+ ZA: 22 British: E3 5c PG13 [details]
FA: Tom Ogden
Page Views: 32
Submitted By: Evan Wisheropp on Jun 14, 2017

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Description 

The Henchman is a rising traverse of the main face of the Glory Hole from left to right. It begins with some tricky and very thoughtful moves protected by gear. I used an OK-ish offset cam followed by a #1 nut near the start (left semi-fixed), then good gear after that after a few committing moves. Moving between the 11d and 11c bolt line is a little tricky, and a fall clipping the second bolt would be bad news, but the moves are all there. After that, the route is mellow passing two more bolts before the anchor (clip them long).

Location 

Blocky dihedral start 23' left of the 11d.

Protection 

Four bolts. Gear up to .75, slings. Rap rings


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