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The Helmet

Routes Sorted
L to R R to L Alpha
Adventures of Nad and Huck, The S 
Ain't My First Rodeo S 
Brain Bucket S 
Critical Mass S 
Crossing, The S 
Danny Likes Men S 
Demolition Derby S 
Dwarf Toss S 
El Torito S 
Freeloader S 
Mr. Clean S 
No Climb For Old Men S 
Pregnant Pause S 
Tony's Route S 

The Helmet Rock Climbing 

Photos:  Recent | Best | Popular
Elevation: 6,900'
Location: 32.37846, -110.70391 View Map  Incorrect?
Page Views: 6,376
Administrators: Greg Opland, Luke Bertelsen, JJ Schlick, Kristine Hoffman (sitewide)
Submitted By: jbak on Apr 26, 2010


66° | 43°

69° | 45°

70° | 49°

69° | 51°

69° | 52°
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Old dog.....same trick... Snapped by Vince as he ...


A fun little crag with some unusual routes. Mt Lemmons's answer to the Frog Prince area at Datil.

Easy to see as you drive up the Mt Lemmon Highway. It looks like a helmet sitting up on the slope in front of you as you drive past Col. Birdseye.

Morning shade.

The crag is west-facing with a vertical face on the left, and a shallow cave on the right.

It's a good idea to check the nuts on chain-draw hangers frequently. Let me know if any are loose.

Not a big deal in our dry climate, but FWIW this crag is totally stainless steel.

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There is some confusion (my fault) about route naming in the cave:

Chain Gang - the name EFR gave to the roof chains.

No Climb For Old Men = El Torito start + Chain Gang
Freeloader = Dwarf Toss start + Chain Gang

Getting There 

Park just down-road from the Window. Same as for Middle Earth. I'll post a map. 10 min approach.

Climbing Season

Weather station 2.7 miles from here

14 Total Climbing Routes

['4 Stars',1],['3 Stars',3],['2 Stars',5],['1 Star',5],['Bomb',0]

Classic Climbing Routes in The Helmet

Mountain Project's determination of the classic, most popular, highest rated climbing routes for The Helmet:
Demolition Derby   5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a     Sport, 45'   
El Torito   5.12- 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a     Sport, 35'   
The Crossing   5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b     Sport, 40'   
Dwarf Toss   5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b     Sport, 35'   
No Climb For Old Men   5.13- 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E7 6c     Sport, 55'   
Browse More Rock Climbing Classics in The Helmet

Featured Route For The Helmet
Rock Climbing Photo: Peter riding the rail

No Climb For Old Men 5.13- 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E7 6c  Arizona : Mount Lemmon (Santa Catalin... : ... : The Helmet
El Torito start + Chain Gang extension. On May 18, I saw 7 climbers try the route this way versus 0 doing the Dwarf Toss start, so I figured this version should be posted up. It's a bit confusing, but rock this steep is rare, so it's worth it to detail the options IMO....[more]   Browse More Classics in Arizona

Photos of The Helmet Slideshow Add Photo
Rock Climbing Photo: VB...nappin' on the ledge.
VB...nappin' on the ledge.
Rock Climbing Photo: Lying down in cave, this is the view...
Lying down in cave, this is the view...
Rock Climbing Photo: The cave routes.  There is a line of exploratory h...
BETA PHOTO: The cave routes. There is a line of exploratory h...
Rock Climbing Photo: It's pretty easy to get from The Helmet to Middle ...
BETA PHOTO: It's pretty easy to get from The Helmet to Middle ...

Comments on The Helmet Add Comment
Show which comments
By Joe Kreidel
From: San Antonio, TX
May 5, 2010
Although some people complain about the choss, I really like this area. Super steep climbing on mostly good rock, beautiful views and fun exposure. I only wish the cave was much, much bigger with more and longer routes. Big thanks to the developers, as I can only imagine how much effort went into cleaning and bolting these routes!

More beta for the approach: Head up the same gully as you take for Middle Earth. Near the top of the ridgeline, look for a trail the heads a little left (Middle Earth trail heads off to the right). Follow the trail to top of ridge, then down to Helmet.
By jbak
May 5, 2010
Thanks Joe... I'll take credit for expending the most effort and $$$, but Joe Shiefman was the guy who lit the fire under this crag. He had to badger me for like 5 years before I would go up and take a look.

Cres and EFR helped a lot too. Cres did a lot of cleaning and Eric did some drilling and provided mental health services.
By Hendrixson
From: Tucson, AZ
Jun 5, 2011
My understanding of the routes from left to right:

Vertical Routes
Adventures of Nad & Huck 9
Brain Bucket 10b/c
Ain't My First Rodeo 11a
Danny Likes Men 10d
Critical Mass 11b
Tony's Route 11b/c (Shares first 3 bolts w/ Critical Mass)
Mr Clean 10d

Cave Routes
El Torito 12a/b
Dwarf Toss 12c
Freeloader 13a (Dwarf Toss + Chain Gang Extension)
The Crossing 12b
Demolition Derby 12a/b

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