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Fourth Buttress
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.... Variation of Mickey Mantel T 
Candelaria's Crack T 
Flake T,TR 
Heartland, The T 
Mickey Mantel T 
Northwest Face T 
Scrundle Corner T 
Smooth Groove T 
South Face Roof 
Southwest Chimney T 
Undocumented Free Roof T 
Unknown Mixed Route aka The Green Gargoyle? T 
Unknown, The T 
Zolar Czakl T 
Zolar Czakl (Direct) T,TR 

The Heartland 

YDS: 5.9+ French: 5c Ewbanks: 17 UIAA: VI ZA: 17 British: E1 5a

Type:  Trad, 2 pitches, 210'
Original:  YDS: 5.9+ French: 5c Ewbanks: 17 UIAA: VI ZA: 17 British: E1 5a [details]
FA: Dan Hare, Allen Bradley 1981
Page Views: 1,135
Submitted By: Francisco Manzo on Sep 17, 2002

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BETA PHOTO: The Heartland.

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  • Description 

    This has nice, exposed cracks on two short pitches on the Fourth Elephant Buttress. Start as you would for the Northwest Face, but continue right to a thin crack. Make an committing exposed step to the right and up the thin crack to a nice belay ledge. Pitch 2 begins by going around to the left of the dihedral and going up the the crack to the left of the dihedral to the top.


    Standard rack- nuts and cams.

    Comments on The Heartland Add Comment
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    By Francisco Manzo
    Sep 18, 2002

    I forgot to mention that this route has a lot of lichen, and that it would rate much higher if it got a good cleaning, but despite this the gear is great and BOMBER.
    By Biggwave Dave
    Sep 25, 2002

    One bad-ass route! Not for the meek leader just getting use to 5.9. Short and sweet with a nice bit of creative pro at the begining of the first pitch. Enjoy! The route will only get better!
    By Dougald MacDonald
    May 23, 2011

    I'm giving this route three stars for what it COULD be, not what it is. It's infested with lichen and slippery when wet, but the climbing is excellent, the pro is good, and the position is superb. If only it got more traffic...or a good brushing. Do your part. Do this route! Oh, and the short second pitch is also quite good and lichen-free.

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