REI Community
Myrtle 2 aka "Turtle Arches"
Routes Sorted
L to R R to L Alpha
Arch Enemy T 
FJL aka "Standard Route" T 
Harem Route, The T 
Have a Line S,TR 
Heather's Corner T 
In Over My Head T 
Sweeney's Edge S 
Unsorted Routes:

The Harem Route 

YDS: 5.8+ French: 5b Ewbanks: 16 UIAA: VI- ZA: 15 British: HVS 4c PG13

   
Type:  Trad, Alpine, 3 pitches, 500'
Original:  YDS: 5.8+ French: 5b Ewbanks: 16 UIAA: VI- ZA: 15 British: HVS 4c PG13 [details]
FA: Sunshine, Lisa, Kale
Season: summer/fall
Page Views: 301
Submitted By: Boundary County Climbers on Jul 21, 2015

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BETA PHOTO: Topping out on Have a Line to the "start ledg...

Description 

A Fred Beckey inspired climb! (He was asking Kale to go climb in the rockies with him. Instead Kale chose to go climbing at the arches with a couple of lovely ladies. Fred phrased this action as Kale going climbing with his "harem"!!) Pitch 1 5.8+ 60m. Climb the right-most dihedral past an easier than it looks bulge. The slab in the upper region of the corner is mildly runout. Climb across left and down to access a short steep dihedral. A bolt protects the easy face/flake climbing to the chain anchor on a small ledge. Pitch 2 5.8- 60m. Climb left or straight up on your choice of finger to hand/fist cracks for 30 ft. Trending left up grassy ramps and flakes lead into the 2 bolt face climbing of the "standard route's" 3rd pitch. Pitch 3 5.8 30m. Climb up past 3 bolts and sparse gear on blocky dirty terrain to top chains below the clump of trees....or traverse right 180ft, climb short easy fist crack corner, and follow ramps/ledges 180ft back to top clump of trees.

Location 

Right-most dihedral. A large triangular overhang is 30 ft above the 1st pitch anchor.

Protection 

double set of cams to 2.5inches, set of nuts.
bolt/chain anchors, double 60m ropes to rappel.


Photos of The Harem Route Slideshow Add Photo
Rock Climbing Photo: The Harem Route as seen from below the approach sl...
BETA PHOTO: The Harem Route as seen from below the approach sl...
Rock Climbing Photo: The easier than it looks bulge on the first pitch.
The easier than it looks bulge on the first pitch.
Rock Climbing Photo: Looking down the Harem Route 1st pitch dihedral
BETA PHOTO: Looking down the Harem Route 1st pitch dihedral
Rock Climbing Photo: From below the approach slab.
BETA PHOTO: From below the approach slab.

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