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The Hank Collins Memorial Wall
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A Big Tease  S 
A Little Tease S 
Entry Fee  S 
Good Die Young, The S 
Hank Collins Memorial Route S 
Hank Spire, The S 
Hanky Panky S 
Sweet as Hank S 
Tommy TwoTone S 

The Hank Spire 

YDS: 5.12c French: 7b+ Ewbanks: 27 UIAA: IX- ZA: 27 British: E6 6b

   
Type:  Sport, 60'
Original:  YDS: 5.12c French: 7b+ Ewbanks: 27 UIAA: IX- ZA: 27 British: E6 6b [details]
FA: Chris Hatzai
New Route: Yes
Season: Golden eagle closure Feb 17 - Aug 1
Page Views: 854
Submitted By: Chris Hatzai on Oct 14, 2016

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The Hank Spire

  • February 1st to August 1st: GOLDEN EAGLE CLIMBING CLOSURE MORE INFO >>>
  • 02/28/2017 to 08/31/2017: GOLDEN EAGLE CLIMBING CLOSURE MORE INFO >>>
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  • The Hank Spire 

    The Hank Spire is the second pitch route linking Sweet as Hank to the summit of The Hank Collins Memorial Wall. Originally planned as one big adventure route, the climb was split into two pitches to avoid massive rope drag. To climb The Hank Spire, climb Sweet as Hank and belay the following climber up from the first set of anchors on the route. The follower can then climb past the belayer on lead, traverse a ledge, and arrive at the second pitch anchors on The Hank Spire. Once you and your partner have made the traverse right to the second pitch anchors, re-rack and prepare to ascend the highest, most prominent feature of the Hank Wall.

    Just like the adventurous spirit of ol' Hank dog, this route by nature has an adventurous quality, sitting so high up on the wall. With the route starting high up below an overhanging bulge, your lowering point when finishing the climb is about 15' away from the wall onto a 3rd class slab; getting down safely can be tricky. The route can be easily climbed and followed on TR using an 80m rope if belaying from the ground. If using a 60m or 70m rope, the climber should lower back to the ledge and belay from the second pitch anchors. Tethering in while lowering or lassoing the rope out to the dangling climber works well to get you back to the ledge. It's also wise for the belayer to have a longer tether fed out connecting them to the wall while belaying. A short connection using a standard PAS or single sling will result in a hard catch for the climber and an awkward catch for the belayer. When both of the climbers are finished climbing, a rappel or simul-rappel from the second pitch anchors to the ground works well.

    Start out traversing the big ledge on good edged crimps to the first bolt. After clipping the second bolt, unclip the first bolt. Keep clipping the next bolt and unclipping the last bolt through to bolt 4. This ensures a clean line runs from you to the belayer. Carefully make an awkward traverse, then working onto a jug flake system. Clip bolts 5 and 6 from the jug flake. From here, you will quickly work into the steepest section of the overhang. Keep working up the flake system until it ends, then being met with some of the slickest hand holds at Smith. Work onto a very slick rail and maneuver the natural gloss of the best and worst clipping hold in the park (have fun brushing!). Make the tough clip and start working your way onto a bulging arête feature leading to an OK clipping stance. Do a couple more moves to the OK jugs and prepare for the crux of the route, pulling a reachy sequence to a side pull high above your head. Clear the cruxy section and arrive at another jug rest. From here, prepare for the redpoint crux off the route guarding the anchors just above. An important right hand side pull and two key crimps unlock this final sequence.

    After you clip the chains, take in the perfect view stretching from the top of The Marsupials, spanning the whole Lower Gorge, all the way over to Red Wall and the surrounding Monument areas. Ol' Hank dog always had the best seat at the crag. The anchors of The Hank Spire provide just that. Here's to you Hanky <3

    10 Bolts, Fixed Steel Anchors

    • **This route should be treated as a multi-pitch climb. Be redundant and be safe.***

    • **Remember to tie a knot in the end of your rope!***

    Location 

    Located on the ledge above Sweet as Hank.

    Protection 

    10 Bolts. Fixed steel anchors.


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    The Hank Spire

    Comments on The Hank Spire Add Comment
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    By Chris Hatzai
    From: Bend, Oregon
    Nov 23, 2016

    This is the best pitch and best rock on the wall. Hands down...
    By Josh Edwards
    From: Bend, Oregon
    Nov 28, 2016

    One of the best pitches of the grade in the park for sure. Thanks for the awesome route Chris!

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