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The Gypsy's Curse 

YDS: 5.10 French: 6b Ewbanks: 20 UIAA: VII- ZA: 19 British: E2 5b

Type:  Trad, 4 pitches, Grade II
Original:  YDS: 5.10 French: 6b Ewbanks: 20 UIAA: VII- ZA: 19 British: E2 5b [details]
FA: Joe French and Bryan Bird
Season: Year round (north facing)
Page Views: 1,377
Submitted By: skeers on Sep 4, 2011

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (10)
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BETA PHOTO: The Gypsy's Curse Route Overlay.

Seasonal Raptor Closures ***** RAIN AND WET ROCK ***** The sandstone in Zion is fragile and is very easily damaged when it is wet. Holds rip off and climbs have been and will continue to be permanently damaged due to climbers not respecting this phenomenon. After a heavy storm the rock will remain wet, sometimes for several days. PLEASE DO NOT CLIMB IN ZION during or after rain. A good rule of thumb is that if the ground near your climb is at all damp (and not powdery dry sand), then do not climb. There are many alternatives (limestone, granite, basalt, and plastic) nearby. Seasonal Raptor Closures MORE INFO >>>


P1- 5.9, that starts with nice hand crack for 20 feet, up through twin hand cracks to nice ledge leading under a large boulder. anchors on top of large boulder. 3 bolt anchor with webbing

P2- 5.10 This is by far the crux pitch of the climb, and starts with fingers and ends with tight fists. (more of a arm jam) This is the endurance pitch and has small and sloppy feet, with one good rest.

P3- 5.10-. This was by far my favorite pitch. Pull a small roof out of a chimney right off the belay into a ever tightening chimney for approx 40-50 feet. The chimney accepts good pro towards the back. once you leave the chimney you come to a one bolt face climb which leads into a finger crack to the right or you can traverse the face back into a # 4-5 off width up to good 3 bolt anchor with webbing.

P4- 5.9-5.7. Need description

see Zion climbing guide by Bryan Bird for topo pg. 172


East End of Cragmont.


2 ea .4-3.5", 1 ea 4", extra 3.5 " 1 ea 5" (P4-p5)
nuts helpful, 1-60m rope

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By Danger-Russ Gordon
From: Orem UT
May 5, 2013

Does anyone know if the top of the fourth pitch still needs a bolt? I'll get up there and place one if I know for sure it needs it?
By Ray Hellinger
From: Gunnison, CO
Mar 25, 2015

The 4th pitch kinda looked like junk. We didn't bother. The 2nd pitch is pretty amazing. Very enduro for its grade. 3 x #3 and #4 camalots we perfect for me (doubles of the rest). The #4s were tight, but worked. Old BD 3.5s would be ideal.
By Matt Glue
From: Boulder, CO
Oct 31, 2016

Phenomenal route! The chimney must be one of the best for learning how to almost-squeeze. Great gear and holds in the back, but you can ignore the holds if you want to and just squeeze away. With 1x #4 and 2x #3's, P2 was runout but doable.

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