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The Guillotine 

YDS: 5.10a/b French: 6a+ Ewbanks: 19 UIAA: VI+ ZA: 19 British: E2 5b

   
Type:  Sport, 1 pitch, 90'
Original:  YDS: 5.10b French: 6a+ Ewbanks: 19 UIAA: VII- ZA: 19 British: E2 5b [details]
FA: Louie Anderson (1997)
Page Views: 5,569
Submitted By: Benjamin Chapman on Dec 12, 2009

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (105)
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Ryan B ....solid on the flake

Grotto and Lookout closed MORE INFO >>>

Description 

Starts up the left facing corner, clipping the bolts on the left wall. Once you reach the flake follow it up and left to Geezer's anchors.

Location 

The right most route on the wall. Climb the left facing corner below the right side of the wide flake.

Protection 

8 bolts to shared 2 open shuts.


Photos of The Guillotine Slideshow Add Photo
Rock Climbing Photo: Matt B cleans up the flake and goes north to the a...
Matt B cleans up the flake and goes north to the a...
Rock Climbing Photo: Here is Brooke looking for the footholds.
Here is Brooke looking for the footholds.
Rock Climbing Photo: Leading Guillotine
Leading Guillotine
Rock Climbing Photo: On the flake.
On the flake.
Rock Climbing Photo: Ben on the Guillotine
Ben on the Guillotine

Comments on The Guillotine Add Comment
Show which comments
By smlucas
From: Los Angeles, CA
May 11, 2017

CONDITION REPORT 
Gorgeous new anchors on a fun lil' climb.

Big love for the mussy hooks and party responsible for placing them. This Bud's for you.
By Bidimpata-Kerim Tshimanga
From: Isla Vista, California
Mar 25, 2013
rating: 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a

Super fun route, though 10b feels like a little much. Once you get up the guillotine itself, it is one MASSIVE undercling most of the way up. Feet might be a little delicate but I think this route is more like 9+ or 10a. Again though, suuuuper fun route.
By Jamie Umbras
From: Moab, UT
Feb 24, 2014

Great route, area classic for sure. 10a/b seems like a fair grade. Not to be missed.
By Wei-Li
From: Los Angeles, CA
Sep 7, 2015

The anchors on this route are worn, one has rope wear almost half way through and the other, maybe about one-third of the way through.
By Jack C. Beckley
From: arcadia ca
Apr 5, 2016

Great climb! the underclinging is really fun! pretty slippery with all the chalk from the mass amounts of traffic...it actually leaved a stain on the wall...
the right anchor was worn about half way through and the left was good
By JTLA Tolins
From: Los Angeles, California
Feb 24, 2017

New Anchors up as of yesterday (two 1/2" x 4" expansion bolts with steel beaners) . Also, just right of the fifth bolt there is a large block in the flake (about 1'x3') that has a fracture and looks like it may go soon. As an added bonus it's directly above where the belayer stands and there is really no good way for the belayer to get out of the way.

If someone was feeling inspired they could probably crowbar it off. Depending on how much comes off it may even be a good idea to move the fifth bolt afterward.
By Lena
From: Ojai, CA
Apr 7, 2017

Thank you so much for the anchor replacement!!
It was definitely a need. Much appreciated.

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