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The Alcove
Routes Sorted
L to R R to L Alpha
Carnivore S 
El Nino S 
Geezer S 
Gravity S 
Guillotine, The S 
Pride S 
Right Stuff, The S 
Spam S 
Whippersnapper S 

The Guillotine 

YDS: 5.10a/b French: 6a+ Ewbanks: 19 UIAA: VI+ ZA: 19 British: E2 5b

   
Type:  Sport, 1 pitch, 90'
Original:  YDS: 5.10b French: 6a+ Ewbanks: 19 UIAA: VII- ZA: 19 British: E2 5b [details]
FA: Louie Anderson (1997)
Page Views: 5,176
Submitted By: Benjamin Chapman on Dec 12, 2009

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (99)
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Ryan B ....solid on the flake

Grotto and Lookout closed MORE INFO >>>

Description 

Starts up the left facing corner, clipping the bolts on the left wall. Once you reach the flake follow it up and left to Geezer's anchors.

Location 

The right most route on the wall. Climb the left facing corner below the right side of the wide flake.

Protection 

8 bolts to shared 2 open shuts.


Photos of The Guillotine Slideshow Add Photo
Rock Climbing Photo: Matt B cleans up the flake and goes north to the a...
Matt B cleans up the flake and goes north to the a...
Rock Climbing Photo: Here is Brooke looking for the footholds.
Here is Brooke looking for the footholds.
Rock Climbing Photo: Leading Guillotine
Leading Guillotine
Rock Climbing Photo: On the flake.
On the flake.
Rock Climbing Photo: Ben on the Guillotine
Ben on the Guillotine

Comments on The Guillotine Add Comment
Show which comments
By Christian Boewe
From: West Hills, California
Feb 15, 2017
rating: 5.10a/b 6a+ 19 VI+ 19 E2 5b PG13

CONDITION REPORT 
Anchors are getting pretty scary to use.
By Bidimpata-Kerim Tshimanga
From: Isla Vista, California
Mar 25, 2013
rating: 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a

Super fun route, though 10b feels like a little much. Once you get up the guillotine itself, it is one MASSIVE undercling most of the way up. Feet might be a little delicate but I think this route is more like 9+ or 10a. Again though, suuuuper fun route.
By Jamie Umbras
From: Dallas
Feb 24, 2014

Great route, area classic for sure. 10a/b seems like a fair grade. Not to be missed.
By Wei-Li
From: Los Angeles, CA
Sep 7, 2015

The anchors on this route are worn, one has rope wear almost half way through and the other, maybe about one-third of the way through.
By Jack C. Beckley
From: arcadia ca
Apr 5, 2016

Great climb! the underclinging is really fun! pretty slippery with all the chalk from the mass amounts of traffic...it actually leaved a stain on the wall...
the right anchor was worn about half way through and the left was good
By Tim Maas
From: Isla Vista, California
Dec 12, 2016

Anyone know of people doing this route on gear?
By Benjamin Chapman
From: Small Town, USA
Dec 12, 2016

Why? There are plenty of other climbs in other locations in S. California that have solid rock where you can place gear on lead without endangering yourself trying to force the issue or prove something on the vertical mud/vhoss of the Santa Monica's.
By Tim Maas
From: Isla Vista, California
Dec 12, 2016

Hey Benjamin, thanks for the reply. I'm definitely not out to prove anything. I saw that there was trad (simple gully) and thought the quality was good enough. Didn't realize it was a 5.5X route and that quality was not good. I just really liked this line and thought it might be fun, thanks for the info.
By Benjamin Chapman
From: Small Town, USA
Dec 13, 2016

Good luck with your trad experience, Tim. Just my humble opinion.
By Tim Maas
From: Isla Vista, California
Dec 13, 2016

Thanks! Definitely going to follow your advice and not do it.