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Unsorted Routes:

The Guillotine 

YDS: 5.11c/d French: 7a Ewbanks: 24 UIAA: VIII ZA: 25 British: E4 6a

Type:  Trad, 1 pitch, 90'
Original:  YDS: 5.11c/d French: 7a Ewbanks: 24 UIAA: VIII ZA: 25 British: E4 6a [details]
FA: Nathan Brown (rope solo with some aid)
Page Views: 1,496
Submitted By: nbrown on Dec 2, 2009

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No #4, Reaching for other gear.


This is quite a varied route that has recently been extended all the way to the peregrine roof. I re-configured it into 2 pitches to prevent rope drag. It also makes P-1 doable for anyone scared by the guillotine flake above.

Climb the short corner to a bolt out right. Continue up and right through funky corners to a thin face. Bolts and small cams protect the face to a hard mantel at the 5th bolt. A new belay was added at the 6th bolt location under the guillotine flake to break the route into 2 pitches.

From here, move up the face to the giant guillotine flake and get gear behind it on the right side (T.S. was gracious enough to test this cam with a 30 footer). Move out right and through the roof which is protected by a bolt (newly placed to reduce rope drag on Captain K.). Climb the corner past a bolt to another bolt at the end of the corner. From here the route continues up an excellent thin face on small crimps. Some weaving back and forth will make this easier but it's still quite thin. There are options for several small cams (#0-#1 tcu) on the face to supplement the bolts. Belay on bolts at the Peregrine roof/ledge.

You can rap with one 70m, which will just barely get you down. Otherwise swing left to the P-1 anchors.


Just to the right of The "Glass I". Crosses over the diagonaling first pitch of "Chieftains Of Creep" at the Guillotine Flake and extending to the peregrine roof.


no stoppers, but a rack of cams up to #1, plus one #4 camelot for the roof move. Optional #2 or #3 for below the roof. The upper face only requires from purple - yellow tcu's.

Photos of The Guillotine Slideshow Add Photo
Rock Climbing Photo: About to gain the crisp face above.
About to gain the crisp face above.
Rock Climbing Photo: The Guillotine
The Guillotine

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