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Negro Bill Canyon
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Guides' Crack, The T 
Unknown aka Prowler T 
Unknown, aka pack rat infestation  T 

The Guides' Crack 

YDS: 5.11 French: 6c+ Ewbanks: 23 UIAA: VIII- ZA: 23 British: E4 5c

Type:  Trad, 100'
Original:  YDS: 5.11 French: 6c+ Ewbanks: 23 UIAA: VIII- ZA: 23 British: E4 5c [details]
FA: Nate Sydnor and Ed Oak (5.10 C1) - FFA Herb Crimp and Nate Sydnor
New Route: Yes
Season: Any
Page Views: 161
Submitted By: Nate Sydnor on Aug 5, 2017

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BETA PHOTO: The crack

RAIN, WET ROCK and RAPTOR CLOSURES: The sandstone around Moab is fragile and is very easily damaged when it is wet. Also please ask and be aware of Raptor Closures in areas such as CAT WALL and RESERVOIR WALL in Indian Creek MORE INFO >>>


Any guide who is a climber and who has worked in this canyon has surely looked at this crack. The rock is actually quite good, and the climbing is varied and engaging. The thin start is likely the technical crux, but some steep thin hands jamming in the zig-zag crack up high offers a stimulating finish. Expect a little sugary rock, but overall this route is safe, with good protection, and better than I had expected.


Prominent crack directly up the prow that stands above the south end of the arch. In order to approach, it is recommended to take the route to the alternate rappel and hike out to the top of the turret with a static line. Wrap the whole sugary summit as an anchor, then take the alternate rappel in and climb out.


Doubles from less-than-tips to #3 Camalot, and a single #4

Photos of The Guides' Crack Slideshow Add Photo
Rock Climbing Photo: Herb on the FFA
Herb on the FFA
Rock Climbing Photo: Ed on the final section during the first ascent
Ed on the final section during the first ascent

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