Type: | Trad, 100 ft (30 m) |
FA: | Nate Sydnor and Ed Oak (5.10 C1) - FFA Herb Crimp and Nate Sydnor |
Page Views: | 1,140 total · 14/month |
Shared By: | Nate Sydnor on Aug 5, 2017 |
Admins: | slim, Andrew Gram, Nathan Fisher, Perin Blanchard, GRK, D C |
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Access Issue: RAIN, WET ROCK and RAPTOR CLOSURES: The sandstone around Moab is fragile and is very easily damaged when it is wet. Also please ask and be aware of Raptor Closures in areas such as CAT WALL and RESERVOIR WALL in Indian Creek
Details
WET ROCK: Holds rip off and climbs have been and will continue to be permanently damaged due to climbers not respecting this phenomenon. After a heavy storm the rock will remain wet, sometimes for several days. PLEASE DO NOT CLIMB IN MOAB during or after rain.
RAPTOR CLOSURES: please be aware of seasonal raptor closures. They occur annually in the spring.
RAPTOR CLOSURES: please be aware of seasonal raptor closures. They occur annually in the spring.
Description
Any guide who is a climber and who has worked in this canyon has surely looked at this crack. The rock is actually quite good, and the climbing is varied and engaging. The thin start is likely the technical crux, but some steep thin hands jamming in the zig-zag crack up high offers a stimulating finish. Expect a little sugary rock, but overall this route is safe, with good protection, and better than I had expected.
Location
Prominent crack directly up the prow that stands above the south end of the arch. In order to approach, it is recommended to take the route to the alternate rappel and hike out to the top of the turret with a static line. Wrap the whole sugary summit as an anchor, then take the alternate rappel in and climb out.
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