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Summit Cliff (The Highlands)
Routes Sorted
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Boy Who Cried Wolf, The S 
Corax crack T 
Dr. Dingle S 
Four Seasons S 
Giant's Chimney T 
Gospel According to Mark, The S 
Guardian, The S 
Karmic Realignment S 
Northern Lights S 
Northwest Passage S 
Passing on the Right TR 
Path of the Righteous S 
Rumpus Time S 
Three Bump Dumper S 
Visions of Jerusalem S 
Where the Wild Things Are S 
Yid Kid, The S 

The Guardian 

YDS: 5.12b/c French: 7b+ Ewbanks: 27 UIAA: IX- ZA: 27 British: E6 6b

   
Type:  Sport, 80'
Original:  YDS: 5.12b/c French: 7b+ Ewbanks: 27 UIAA: IX- ZA: 27 British: E6 6b [details]
FA: Lee Hansche 9/16/16
New Route: Yes
Page Views: 725
Submitted By: lee hansche on Sep 16, 2016

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x marks the bolts

Description 

Legend:
It is told that this section of cliff was once guarded by a fierce dragon who could breathe fire to melt the stone and whose sharp talons could gouge the rock like a spade in soft earth. In the great battle of Rumney The Guardian laid scores of rock warriors to waste. No one knows what became of this most feared beast. Some say he still lurks in the caves and crevices of the Highlands. The 3 streaks that mark this route are the only surviving proof of the existence of this mythical creature, as they were made by his lethal claws. It is considered an act of great bravery to this day to attempt to scale the The Guardian's wall... Come fourth brave soul.

You can gain the ledge at the base of the route by scrambling up the tunnel cave at the base of the gospel according to mark. Otherwise you could climb a bit of the Gospel or Where the wild things are. Once there its pretty comfy but you may anchor to the tree on the ledge. This is a nice hang out spot.

Climb up Giant's Chimney reaching out right to clip the first 2 or 3 bolts. At this point break out on to the face and continue up to an ok rest before the hard stuff begins. Crux 1 involves a bouldery corner involving stemming and some trickery and ends at a nice no hand rest. Catch your breath because from here it stays steep and the game is on all the way to the anchor. Extremely varied climbing for the top 1/3 of the route. Crimps, slopers, all sorts of kneebars (left kneepad recommended), a chimey move or two and eventually a heroic exposed jug haul to the top.

This thing is truly epic, exposed, interesting, enjoyable and quite frankly the best climb on the cliff... I checked ;)

Location 

The route starts from the ledge at the base of Giants Chimney, 25 feet up. You start in the chimney for about 20 feet following wave bolts to the right of the chimney breaking right on to the steep face at the 2nd or 3rd bolt.

You can gain the ledge at the base of the route the "buddah Ledge" by squirming up a little cave that feels fairly secure.

Protection 

12 wave bolts to anchor.


Photos of The Guardian Slideshow Add Photo
Rock Climbing Photo: This is the hole you can scramble through to gain ...
This is the hole you can scramble through to gain ...
Rock Climbing Photo: entering the home stretch about 20 feet below the ...
entering the home stretch about 20 feet below the ...
Rock Climbing Photo: torie in the 1st crux which starts the business of...
torie in the 1st crux which starts the business of...
Rock Climbing Photo: Torie TRing after the FA. The rope shows the gener...
Torie TRing after the FA. The rope shows the gener...
Rock Climbing Photo: The only shot from the FA (photographer had to lea...
The only shot from the FA (photographer had to lea...

Comments on The Guardian Add Comment
Show which comments
By Eli
From: Lives in a truck
Sep 17, 2016

Nice description Lee. I wonder if people will go for Rumney Lore. You could make a competing guidebook I suppose.
By lee hansche
Administrator
From: goffstown, nh
Sep 17, 2016

Thanks Eli, I had a lot of time hanging up there to think up the tale haha.
By lee hansche
Administrator
From: goffstown, nh
Oct 14, 2016

I got back up there today to finish cleaning, retrieve my draws and install some pigtails/ram horns on the anchor. While in the neighborhood I grabbed a repeat on the route and it was even more fun the second time! I can't overstate just how FUN this route is!!!!
By Eric Leclerc
From: Montreal
Aug 27, 2017

This Saturday I went to climb Four Seasons at Summit Cliff.
While I was warming up on Where the Wild Things Are, I was looking at Lee's latest addition to this cliff (The Guardian) and I couldn't stop drooling.
I will 100% come back for this stunning line!!!
By lee hansche
Administrator
From: goffstown, nh
Aug 28, 2017

Great to hear! Did you do the 5.11a extension I added on Wild Things? And how did 4 seasons go? I've gotta do that one.
By Eric Leclerc
From: Montreal
Aug 28, 2017

I keep your 11a for the day I come back for Karmic. I didn't want to wear my fingers out before going on 4 seasons. I went on it last year and found all the moves but didn't have enough skin left to send it. Sent it this Saturday. The top was covered with lichen before my send but on my first go, I brushed a lot and it makes the end much more pleasant. I could have blown the send at the end so it was dirty.
By lee hansche
Administrator
From: goffstown, nh
Aug 31, 2017

Very cool Eric, nice job on Four Seasons!

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