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The Guardian

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Swiss Edge T 

The Guardian Rock Climbing 


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Submitted By: James Garrett on Nov 7, 2005
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Looking at the south face of The Guardian. Saw at ...

Description 

The approach is as for Jon's Hideout, but it is the large tower like buttress mentioned in the guidebook. This piece of Rock has excellent quality rock and it's not taken advantage of enough! After passing the gate at the Big Willow Road be sure to find the path which veers off the road to the right (south)follow the very faint trail past a rock with a blue spot on it. This is the crux. If you find the trail here you won't lose it. The trail gets better, but still could use some trimming of scrub oak here and there. Excellent camping exists in the cirque, but water is not always available. Some nice areas exist just below the tree line and about 20 minutes further to the Guardian. Swiss Edge is on the West, the Dylan routes are on the south.

Climbing Season



Weather station 5.4 miles from here

1 Total Climbing Routes

['4 Stars',0],['3 Stars',1],['2 Stars',0],['1 Star',0],['Bomb',0]
['<=5.6',0],['5.7',0],['5.8',0],['5.9',1],['5.10',0],['5.11',0],['5.12',0],['5.13',0],['>=5.14',0],['',0],['<=V1',0],['V2-3',0],['V4-5',0],['V6-7',0],['V8-9',0],['V10-11',0],['V12-13',0],['>=V14',0]


Featured Route For The Guardian
Rock Climbing Photo: The Guardian - the Swiss Edge ascends the (climber...

Swiss Edge 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a  Utah : Wasatch Range : ... : The Guardian
This route has been in the Ruckman guide which was updated from the original ascent. This is good fun climbing and the South Face Rappels have been added to enable descent with one 60m rope. It seemed far enough up there to justify carrying the weight of only one rope. I have heard favorable reports about this climb over the years from other visitors.After arriving at the base of the West Arete (which should take about 3 hours from the trailhead...less with a really light load and if you are goi...[more]   Browse More Classics in Utah

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By Kevin MP
From: Redmond, OR
Oct 23, 2014
Approach beta: the approach is now very straightforward, if not a bit strenuous. Start at the LDS church on the east side of Wasatch Blvd at about 11400 South, head up the paved trail, hang a left(north) on the dirt road. You will go around a gate, then look for the marked Saw Mill Trail (very obvious, not faint) on your right, just before the Watershed No Trespassing gate. Follow this trail as it ascends steeply to the ridgeline between Big and Little Willow Canyons. At about 45 minutes you will come to a fork at an Avalanche Danger sign, head left. This will eventually drop you into Big Willow Canyon and a nice pine forest. You will cross a stream at about 1:15, which appears to be running year round (it was on 10/22 without much snow above) if you want to save on carrying too much water up. At about 1:30 you will emerge from the woods with great views of the Guardian. The brush gets a little thicker here but the trail is still obvious. Hike until you are even with the start of the Swiss Edge, then thrash your way over for 200 feet of hateful brush to the base of the wall. It's over quickly, we were moving at a good clip and made it from car to base in 2 hours.

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