Route Guide    Partners    Forum    Photos    What's New    Journal        
Sign Up  |   Log In:Login with Facebook
REI Community
The GriGri Ultimate Idiot Tape Scheme
View Latest Posts in This Forum or All Forums
Page 1 of 2.  1  2   Next>   Last>>
Follow replies to this topic? Notify me at the top of web site.
1

Email me.
 
Oct 26, 2013
Rock Climbing Photo: Rainier
To my surprise, I have actually gotten a few compliments about this at the crag, someone suggested I post to MP so here it goes.

Yes, though it only takes about 15 seconds to look at the device once and know how it works, the internet is full of stories of misthreaded devices, even by experienced climbers, perhaps due to fatigue, overconfidence, or who knows...

The idea here is to simply add another layer of protection against being one of those people that we all hail as being champions of idiocy for failure to use the device properly. Also: subsequently I have found this color scheme is useful for when you are doing complex rescue sequences and are distracted by other things, perhaps just distracted enough to mix-up the climb side/brake side idea.

SO: put GREEN tape around the climber side. GREEN FOR "GOing" side. RED around the brake side, RED FOR "STOPing" side.

We will call this the "ultimate idiot scheme." I reserve the normal "idiot scheme" for the person I saw that traced the usage diagram with a sharpie pen for more visibility. If anyone has and even bigger idiot scheme for their device, we can come up with a new name.


Rock Climbing Photo: New GriGri with ultimate idiot tape scheme. GREEN ...
New GriGri with ultimate idiot tape scheme. GREEN for GOing side, RED for STOPing side.




Rock Climbing Photo: I suppose telling someone to pull the red lever is...
I suppose telling someone to pull the red lever is not confidence inspiring.
Andy P.
From Wisconsin
Joined Apr 20, 2013
208 points
Oct 26, 2013
Rock Climbing Photo: aliens
good idea man Ethan Henderson
From Silverdale, WA
Joined Oct 11, 2010
675 points
Oct 26, 2013
Rock Climbing Photo: A reasonable likeness of this user.
Great idea! As I am a practising idiot, I'm gonna go do this right now. The Call Of K2 Lou
From Squamish, BC
Joined Mar 30, 2012
28 points
Oct 26, 2013
Rock Climbing Photo: The route in it's entirety.
The lip side red tape will come off as that's where you roll the brake strand back, but you'll figure it out soon enough. Greg G
From SLC, UT
Joined Oct 3, 2008
842 points
Oct 26, 2013
This matters highaltitudeflatulentexpulsion
From Colorado
Joined Oct 29, 2012
43 points
Oct 26, 2013
Rock Climbing Photo: Middle
Let's see how you mark your shoe laces. Ray Pinpillage
From West Egg
Joined Jul 23, 2010
180 points
Oct 26, 2013
Rock Climbing Photo: Buffsta
I tape my shoes in order to make it easier to tell which is which. Same with my belay gloves. Jon Zucco
From Denver, CO
Joined Aug 15, 2008
374 points
Oct 26, 2013
This is a good idea - I'm going to color code the accelerator and brake pedal in my car. It will save me and some pedestrians a lot of grief. FrankPS
From Atascadero, CA
Joined Nov 19, 2009
284 points
Oct 26, 2013
Rock Climbing Photo: Rainier
:D I have a complex coding scheme to indicate the approximate kn rating of my shoelaces... ya know... just in case.

Greg, the red tape, after a year of use all over the place, is somehow still there, I too am surprised but the rope must just glide over it.
Andy P.
From Wisconsin
Joined Apr 20, 2013
208 points
Oct 26, 2013
johnnyrig wrote:
shouldn't BD offer them in a dual anodiztion scheme right from the factory? I mean...


I don't think Balck Diamond wants to deal with the shakedown from Petzl's lawyers that would be coming their way.
Khoi
From Vancouver, BC
Joined Oct 12, 2009
29 points
Oct 26, 2013
Rock Climbing Photo: Rrrrr
Great, now all the red/green colorblinds are totally f'd!

Is taking out a few drunk badgers really all that bad??
Buff Johnson
Joined Dec 19, 2005
1,506 points
Oct 26, 2013
Rock Climbing Photo: Rock Wars, RRG, 2008
I just painted the hand (brake) side pic with red nail polish for visibility. tape rubs/peels off too easily. Woodchuck ATC
Joined Nov 29, 2007
3,282 points
Oct 26, 2013
Rock Climbing Photo: Leashless bliss. 3 points of contact
No matter how hard I try, I can't fuck up threading my stitch plate, figure 8, or ATC.
No tape required. :-P
Tom-onator
From trollfreesociety
Joined Feb 15, 2010
815 points
Oct 26, 2013
Wait....I'm red green color blind... Thaddeus Thiggins
Joined Aug 6, 2013
22 points
Oct 26, 2013
Rock Climbing Photo: Mathematical!
Tom-osaurus Rex wrote:
No matter how hard I try, I can't fuck up threading my stitch plate, figure 8, or ATC. No tape required. :-P


As a gym employee, I can assure you that people fuck up threading their ATCs all the time.
Finn the Human
From The Land of Ooo
Joined Jul 11, 2008
143 points
Oct 26, 2013
Rock Climbing Photo: Leashless bliss. 3 points of contact
Finn the Human wrote:
As a gym employee, I can assure you that people fuck up threading their ATCs all the time.


They are prolly driven to the Ooovian gym by these guys...





Rock Climbing Photo: ...
...
Tom-onator
From trollfreesociety
Joined Feb 15, 2010
815 points
Oct 27, 2013
Finn the Human wrote:
As a gym employee, I can assure you that people fuck up threading their ATCs all the time.


+1
Khoi
From Vancouver, BC
Joined Oct 12, 2009
29 points
Oct 27, 2013
Rock Climbing Photo: Buffsta
How does one mess up threading an ATC? How is that possible? Jon Zucco
From Denver, CO
Joined Aug 15, 2008
374 points
Oct 27, 2013
Rock Climbing Photo: My dogs got ups yo!
Jon Zucco wrote:
How does one mess up threading an ATC? How is that possible?

For realz? Easy ding dongs forget to put the little rope-y thing through the carabiner.
jarthur
From Westminster, CO
Joined Mar 23, 2008
364 points
Oct 27, 2013
Rock Climbing Photo: Buffsta
Wait, does ATC mean All Things Considered or Air Traffic Control?

I guess I am just confused about what you guys are talking about. Maybe if you marked it with tape, this thread would be easier to follow.

Just my 2 cents.
Jon Zucco
From Denver, CO
Joined Aug 15, 2008
374 points
Oct 27, 2013
Rock Climbing Photo: Ocecats
Andy P.......good for you. Great use of metacognition to "idiot proof" your belay device. Whatever works for you. Benjamin Chapman
From Small Town, USA
Joined Jan 2, 2007
16,257 points
Oct 27, 2013
And I thought Petzl had nailed it with the picture of guy in the diaper on one side and the hand on the other.

Rock Climbing Photo: I'm the guy in the Diaper your the Hand!
I'm the guy in the Diaper your the Hand!
cdec
From SLC, UT
Joined Jan 3, 2007
401 points
Oct 27, 2013
Not sure which this taping scheme screams more:

--I am SO clever and special!

--I am an idiot.

Not trying to be harsh, just pointing out that it doesn't take much DIY or other nonsense to make me avoid climbing with folks I don't know.

PULL TESTING has always been the gold standard, and it does remind one to check for 'two points', 'good knot', etc. every time.

Petzl diagram seems fine to me, as is a good understanding of how the device works......
coldfinger
Joined Oct 23, 2010
67 points
Oct 27, 2013
It's much more fun convincing everyone their gri-gri is some kind of death device and watching them treat it like a loaded weapon. Brad M
Joined Sep 30, 2012
0 points
Oct 27, 2013
Rock Climbing Photo: High Exposure
Jon Zucco wrote:
How does one mess up threading an ATC? How is that possible?


I saw this once at a gym and once outside on the cliff: The rope was threaded into one slot of the ATC, around a carabiner and out the OTHER slot of the ATC.

The girl at the gym was very appreciative when corrected. The guy outside insisted that his AMGA guide friend had taught him that way. "After all, that's why it had two slots in the first place...."
wivanoff
Joined Mar 3, 2012
409 points
Oct 27, 2013
wivanoff wrote:
I saw this once at a gym and once outside on the cliff: The rope was threaded into one slot of the ATC, around a carabiner and out the OTHER slot of the ATC.

I believe you, but that just blows my mind....
Dan Felix
Joined Aug 24, 2012
46 points


Follow replies to this topic? Notify me at the top of web site.
1

Email me.
Page 1 of 2.  1  2   Next>   Last>>