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White Dike Area
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1976 T 
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The Green Giant 

YDS: 5.9 French: 5c Ewbanks: 17 UIAA: VI ZA: 17 British: HVS 5a

   
Type:  Trad, 2 pitches, 230'
Original:  YDS: 5.9 French: 5c Ewbanks: 17 UIAA: VI ZA: 17 British: HVS 5a [details]
FA: Scott Matz & Cale Farnham
New Route: Yes
Season: Fall
Page Views: 50
Submitted By: Scott Matz on Sep 11, 2009

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (2)
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Scotty right before the roof.

Description 

Smearing, offwidth, handcrack, fingercrack, chimneying to a layback, this climb offers it all. Gear placements are tricky and some rock is loose.

P1 climbs the green, triangular-looking (left) dihedral up through two roofs, placements are solid in the crack (not on the face). Pull through a couple bulges with great hand and finger cracks, and set belay 110 feet up on an eagle ledge. I used the top of the buttress to rap my rope around for anchor.

P2 follows a ramp of hollow but solid flakes to the right then traverses left just under a face. Move left around the corner, and encounter another 30 feet of little roofs and ledges no harder than 5.9. This has great face and finger cracks on P2. Beware when climbing in this area, rockfall has potential.

Eds. Please do not climb here. This is on private property. The landowner has confirmed that they do not want anyone climbing here.

Location 

This route is better seen heading downstream but lies acrossed the river 100 feet left of White Dike. On the arete feature of the river bend. Cross the river upsteam from the bend, climb the 4th class ledges up to the green dihedral. After P2, exit to climber's left through a notch to the 4th class gully to the west. Kinda tricky but a good sheep run.

Protection 

Normal rack. Bring a lot of small, finger-size pieces, smaller size Hexes. Extras on #3 size. A #4 and #6 C4 were helpful, or a medium Bigbro. We used all 8 slings and a double sling for the 1st roof.


Photos of The Green Giant Slideshow Add Photo
Rock Climbing Photo: Pitch 1 on The Green Giant.
Pitch 1 on The Green Giant.
Rock Climbing Photo: The 1st thirty feet is a chimney with an offwidth ...
The 1st thirty feet is a chimney with an offwidth ...
Rock Climbing Photo: Cale leading P2 getting spicy just around the corn...
Cale leading P2 getting spicy just around the corn...
Rock Climbing Photo: P1 of The Giant. Start on the big ledge 20 feet ab...
BETA PHOTO: P1 of The Giant. Start on the big ledge 20 feet ab...

Comments on The Green Giant Add Comment
Show which comments
By Gary Schmidt
From: Boulder, CO
Sep 11, 2009

Looks like an interesting route. Was that you guys up there today? (Sept 11, '09). I stopped briefly and yelled up to you guys asking about the climb. Will have to have a go at it! Looked like a great line.
By Scott Matz
From: Loveland, CO
Sep 14, 2009

Pitch 2 of this climb is not recomended but a spicy, scary lead on awesome granite, although some loose rock is present. There will be a rap station for this climb in the near future.
By Cale Farnham
Sep 17, 2009

Wow, great line up pretty decent rock. Plan on cleaning both this and 1976 up for future climbing! Lovin' the BTC!
By Scott Matz
From: Loveland, CO
Sep 17, 2010

I climbed it again with David, and proved to be a worth wild trad pitch. The rock is solid in most places. The rating sticks at 5.9-.

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