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The Three Penguins
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The Greater Wrong of the Right 

YDS: 5.9 French: 5c Ewbanks: 17 UIAA: VI ZA: 17 British: HVS 5a R

Type:  Trad, 2 pitches, 150'
Original:  YDS: 5.9 French: 5c Ewbanks: 17 UIAA: VI ZA: 17 British: HVS 5a R [details]
FA: T. Bubb, J. Bargo, 11/27/09 (?)
New Route: Yes
Season: Faces East
Page Views: 673
Submitted By: Tony B on Nov 30, 2009

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  • Raptor Closures 2017: Check status and details at: -Read about Anchor Replacement and Restrictions in Arches National Park
  • RAIN, WET ROCK and RAPTOR CLOSURES: The sandstone around Moab is fragile and is very easily damaged when it is wet. Also please ask and be aware of Raptor Closures in areas such as CAT WALL and RESERVOIR WALL in Indian Creek MORE INFO >>>

  • Description 

    A chossy pitch through the Dewey formation ridge that the 3 penguins sit upon. The major feature that holds the climb was apparently present from the ground, but the holds and gear placements we used had to be unearthed from the exfoliating "stone" that was visible.
    P1 (80', "desert 5.9", R)
    Start a meter or two right of the right-most, right-facing corner system through the base-rock below the 3 penguins, this is to the right of the penguins themselves, just slightly.
    Pull up into a few pockets up high on moves best described as "desert 5.9" and mantle, then traverse left to access the corner. Carefully stem and mantle into the corner and get some thin protection in soft stone (tips crack at first). Work up and into easier climbing with a psychological crux maybe 2/5 of the way up the corner just before accessing good protection. Continue up the corner, being mindful not to drop anything large on your belayer and arrive at the top of a 80' pedestal. Walk left on this to access a belay crack for 3-4" protection (get down below the fractured cap rock and into the good crack. A solid belay can be had here, and best is, to avoid massive drag.
    P2 (50', 5.Easy): From the belay on the top of the first pedestal, traverse out and left with a horizontal crack at shoulder height and a good foot ledge. Place a thin cam or two in the horizontal traverse out to a good 2.5" cam placement that appears, then continue left to reach the second pedestal, to which the other approach pitches climb. Go up and onto the pedestal and belay there behind some Boulders.
    You are now at the left edge of the East face of the Three Penguins as described for the other approach options and can scramble up and right, then traverse or crawl to the right to access any of the routes on the East Face.


    This is the right-most Right-facing dihedral on the East side of the Three Penguins and lines up just past the right-most edge of that formation.


    A full set of cams to 4" and a small selection of stoppers. Gear will come here and there. 3-4" pro for the belay up on the top of P1.

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