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South Face of Arthur's Rock
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Great Variant, The T 
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The Great Variant 

YDS: 5.10a French: 6a Ewbanks: 18 UIAA: VI+ ZA: 18 British: E1 5a

Type:  Trad, 1 pitch, 70'
Original:  YDS: 5.10a French: 6a Ewbanks: 18 UIAA: VI+ ZA: 18 British: E1 5a [details]
FA: Unknown
Season: Fall, Winter, and Spring
Page Views: 566
Submitted By: Ben Scott on Mar 31, 2014

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BETA PHOTO: The Great Variant, 5.10a.


The Great Variant is the obvious variation to climbing pitch 1 of The Great Corner. The rock is much better and the climbing is generally more appealing than the back shredding off-widths of the The Great Corner.

Start about 10 feet right of The Great Corner, and climb the featured crack system to a short bulge. Place a hand-sized cam, and move up and right through a juggy traverse to a stance at a short, left-facing corner. (DO NOT CLIP THE OLD PIN HERE. It's very sketchy and will be removed ASAP.) Continue climbing fun overlaps and face holds to the pitch 1 anchor on The Great Corner.

Descent: a 60m rope will get you down from the The Great Corner P1 anchor.


To reach the South Face, hike up the Arthur’s Rock Trail for about 45-60 minutes. After you pass the Childbirth and Valhalla Boulders, the South Face is in view and off the trail on climber’s right.


Standard rack up to a #2 BD.

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Rock Climbing Photo: The Great Variant, 5.10a.
BETA PHOTO: The Great Variant, 5.10a.

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