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The Great Roof 

YDS: 5.12+ French: 7c Ewbanks: 28 UIAA: IX ZA: 27 British: E6 6b

   
Type:  Trad, 2 pitches, 200'
Original:  YDS: 5.12+ French: 7c Ewbanks: 28 UIAA: IX ZA: 27 British: E6 6b [details]
FA: Marcelo Berti Lungo
Page Views: 75
Submitted By: Nate Ball on Aug 22, 2015

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  • Description 

    Originally freed in 2010 by a strong sport climber and graded 13b (this is what the guidebook gives it), and wasn't freed again until 2015 by strong crack climbers and re-graded at 12b.

    Original gear beta is 5's and 6's. Ryan and Garrreth did it with 1's and 2's. Ana and I went up there and aided the shit out of it, and enjoyed having all of the above.

    Loose, mostly easy climbing across ledges gets you to an awkward bolted stance below the roof. Step left on a narrow, unprotected ledge without any hand holds to get into the giant detached flake, then get up into "the stance." The business is only about 15 feet of 60-70 degree overhanging hand/fist crack into an offwidth, then another 40 feet of much easier climbing to the anchor.

    Check out this video Ryan made:

    Location 

    Can't miss it

    Protection 

    Gear to 5" (for normal mortals)
    316 steel (2011)


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