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Happy Hour Crag
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The Great Race 

YDS: 5.10a French: 6a Ewbanks: 18 UIAA: VI+ ZA: 18 British: E1 5a

   
Type:  Trad, 1 pitch, 40'
Original:  YDS: 5.9+ French: 5c Ewbanks: 17 UIAA: VI ZA: 17 British: E1 5a [details]
FA: Pat Clubine, Kurt Gray, Allan Wood, Alan Bradley, Dan Hare, 1979
Page Views: 1,774
Submitted By: shad O'Neel on May 3, 2003

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (21)
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BETA PHOTO: Looking down from above the crux.

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  • Description 

    This route is just to the right of Hands Off. It is short, sweet, and hard. The long list of hard men that put this is up probably tribute to that.

    The hardest moves are right from the beginning with very small fingers and marginal feel (for a 5.8 climber anyway). It gets easier (ha) as you ascent with a good shallow hand jam to rest on half way up. It's only 40-50 feet long, but it gives a good workout.

    Protection 

    Small, small gear, maybe a #1. Anything goes for an anchor.

    There is a stuck, unclippable TCU down low in the dihedral.


    Photos of The Great Race Slideshow Add Photo
    Rock Climbing Photo: A line of least resistance.
    A line of least resistance.

    Comments on The Great Race Add Comment
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    By Jason Shatek
    Nov 14, 2005
    rating: 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b

    This is way stiff at 5.9+ in my opinion. I thought [Dementia] (5.10a) was easier than this climb. The crux is right off the ground with poor feet and bad hands. I wanted so bad to get a good finger lock in the crack but just couldn't fit my digits in there. The pro is very good with small stoppers, blue and green Aliens. Be careful with your pro placements as I came within a foot or two of decking when I missed a clip. With that said, it seems like a very balancy climb that is much more about finesse and sequence than power. A good problem but more in the 5.10 range.
    By Todd A
    Jun 20, 2006
    rating: 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a

    There's a very large boulder at the top and a little to the left for the anchor that looks solid, don't use it. I originally slung it with a runner. Then looked a little closer and gave it a little nudge, it moved, pushing it a little harder might have brought it down.
    By Bill Olszewski
    From: Colorado Springs, CO
    Sep 19, 2012

    I think this route is may be .10b if you have very thin fingers. I couldn't make the moves through the thin section, couldn't even get a fingertip lock with my fat fingers (and it doesn't help that the rock is absolutely polished with no real footholds to start), so I can't rate this; my friend who climbs solid 5.11 said he felt this was .10d/.11a.
    By Leo Paik
    Administrator
    From: Westminster, Colorado
    Nov 1, 2013

    It seemed as if the path of least resistance is, once you get pro to start, to be just left of the dihedral for a couple moves utilizing some small footholds on that little face to get started. Then, you can reach around into the dihedral. Going straight up in the dihedral to start seemed forced.
    By Jay Eggleston
    From: Denver
    Aug 22, 2014
    rating: 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a

    I too think this climb is at least 10a in difficulty. The hard moves are at the bottom and only a body length long. The pro is good at the crux. Starting to the left is possible as Leo Paik mentions.
    By Fehim Hasecic
    From: Boulder, CO
    Mar 12, 2017
    rating: 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b PG13

    Maybe if I had thinner fingers this would have been 10a. Couldn't jam my digits well past the shallow hand pod. Gear I used: two blue aliens, two green Aliens, red and yellow C3, blue DMM offset nut and BD 2. This sewed it up well.

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