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The Great Escape 

YDS: 5.9+ French: 5c Ewbanks: 17 UIAA: VI ZA: 17 British: E1 5a

Type:  Trad, 4 pitches, 350', Grade II
Original:  YDS: 5.9+ French: 5c Ewbanks: 17 UIAA: VI ZA: 17 British: E1 5a [details]
FA: Brian Smoot & Steve Aldous 83'
Page Views: 222
Submitted By: TylerPhillips on Jun 21, 2007

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Johnny refusing to relinquish the sharp end on the...


There is a great drawn topo in the Ruckmans 96' guide on pg.439.

P1. Start in a left-facing thin corner moving over vegetation and passing a pine tree ( I dare you not to use the limbs for feet), gain a beautiful 3" splitter that ends on a nice ledge/belay. 5.9+
(in the guide there says there is a 5.9+mantle on grass, maybe I am reading the guide wrong, but we didn't find any grass mantle on the pitch.)

P2. Climb up left facing corner up to steep shallow cracks/grooves, these bring you up to the arete and to a 3" crack. Belay on the point/stance at the big horn. 5.8 PG-13
( The guide says it's a R pitch but the leader found numerous cam placements, these were of course shallow, but there were quite a few. They probably didn't have sweet 3-cam units in 83'.)

P3. From the point/belay make a long stem (very cool) to gain a sweet finger splitter, follow the finger splitter up over a small roof until the pitch turns into double hands ( even cooler!). Belay in the gullley 5.7

P4. Ramble up non-descript gulley to the top of the buttress and great views. 5.4

We combined the last 2 pitches with a 70M rope.


The route is on the lookers right of the South Summit wall, pg. 437 in the Ruckman guide has a great picture.


Doubles on everything from #4 camalots to #00 Metolius, long runners very helpful.

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By Greg Gavin
From: SLC, UT
Jul 10, 2013

belay 1 uses finger sized gear. belay 2 uses #3 camalots or slinging the large horn with a 48" runner. belay 3 slings the tree at the top. Highly recommend linking the last 2 pitches as the final is a walk across gravel to a 20 ft dihedral.
By madskates
From: slc
Aug 9, 2016

Can be done in two very long pitches if you belay from right at the base of the low angle corner. Amazing route that doesn't get done enough.

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