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Slhanay (The Squaw)
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Unsorted Routes:

The Great Drain 

YDS: 5.10b French: 6a+ Ewbanks: 19 UIAA: VII- ZA: 19 British: E2 5b

   
Type:  Trad, 5 pitches
Original:  YDS: 5.10b French: 6a+ Ewbanks: 19 UIAA: VII- ZA: 19 British: E2 5b [details]
FA: Harry Young, Robin Barley
Page Views: 958
Submitted By: Hans on Jan 25, 2015

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (9)
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BETA PHOTO: Pitch 3 of The Great Game goes up the 10c corner o...

The Route 

On the main wall of Slhanay, the Great Drain is located just right of the Great Game and is a yet another nice moderate climb on this crag.

P1: 35m, 5.7 Climb a nice corner crack to a small ledge and a bolted anchor. This pitch is shared with Deviant's Games.

Rock Climbing Photo: The 5.7 crack of Pitch 1 of The Great Drain.
The 5.7 crack of Pitch 1 of The Great Drain.


P2: 30m, 5.10b Climb up a wide flake. Deviant's Games heads right here. For the Great Drain, continue up towards an offwidth and squeeze chimney in a corner. Some laybacking mitigates using much actual offwidth trickery, and no big gear is required as the wide part is fully protected by bolts. For comparison, I found this to be much easier than the chimney pitch on Borderline.

Rock Climbing Photo: Looking up the start of Pitch 2 of The Great Drain...
Looking up the start of Pitch 2 of The Great Drain.


Rock Climbing Photo: Pitch 2 of The Great Drain
Pitch 2 of The Great Drain


P3: 40m, 5.10a Climb up through some somewhat hollow flakes to a crack that leads up and right to the belay. Alternately, instead of going right it is possible to go left and join in with pitch 3 of the Great Game and finish as for that route.

Two options are possible for the rest of the climb.

Option A (recommended)

P4: 15m, 5.10c Climb up and left on a slab past 3-4 bolts to the belay at the end of pitch 3 of the Great Game.

P5: 35m, 5.10c Climb up though a short overhanging face on big holds past two bolts, then follow cracks and slabby ledges up and right. Belay at trees. Mostly easy with a short crux right at the beginning. This is the final pitch of the Great Game.

Option B

P4-5: Easy fifth Climb up and right over slabby ledges and discontinuous cracks, eventually joining in with the finish of Jungle Warfare

Descend via the marked trail back to the base of the route. A 4th class down climb through a chimney is required. Alternatively, hike up the trail towards the summit until you find a trail branching climber's right. This trail leads to the base with no technical difficulty.

Location 

Take the regular Slhanay trail from the Mamquam FSR to reach the main wall. The Great Drain begins just right of where the trail reaches the base of the wall.

Gear 

A typical Squamish rack (e.g. set of cams from BD 0.2 to 3 or equivalent, nuts, slings) will suffice. Double up on BD 0.75 and 1 or equivalent.


Photos of The Great Drain Slideshow Add Photo
Rock Climbing Photo: The 5.7 crack of Pitch 1 of The Great Drain.
BETA PHOTO: The 5.7 crack of Pitch 1 of The Great Drain.
Rock Climbing Photo: Looking up the start of Pitch 2 of The Great Drain...
BETA PHOTO: Looking up the start of Pitch 2 of The Great Drain...
Rock Climbing Photo: Pitch 2 of The Great Drain
Pitch 2 of The Great Drain

Comments on The Great Drain Add Comment
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By Andy Laakmann
Site Landlord
From: Bend, OR
Aug 17, 2017
rating: 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b

Fun route, but nowhere near as classic as Great Game.

P1 - Easy 5.7 cracks
P2 - You can't see the meat of the pitch above. Moderate cracks take you to the base of the chimney. It took me a second to realize there was a bolt around and left on the slab. Crux for me was clipping the second bolt. And then laybacking madness up the rest of the bolts. Good fun!
P3 - The first half of this pitch is definitely a bit spooky with the loose flakes. We continued up the Great Game proper rather than switch to the Great Game, but next time I'd jump over to Great Game instead. You really only miss out on the next slab pitch, and in exchange you get the mega corner of Great Game! :)
P4 - Four bolts protected crunchy slab climbing to the base of the final pitch of Great Game.
P5 - Overhanging thuggery up the great game!

We brought a #4 and ended up using it on P3, but not sure it was required. P2 really only took a few pieces before the bolts.

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