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Slhanay (The Squaw)
Routes Sorted
L to R R to L Alpha
Astride my Indian Queen T 
Babies in Kailand T 
Birds of Prey T 
Deviant's Games T 
Face Your Creator T 
Feather, The T 
Flight Simulator T 
Frayed Ends of Sanity S 
Godforsaken Land T 
Great Drain, The T 
Great Game, The T 
Jungle Warfare T 
Photophobia T 
Pipeline T 
Right Wing T 
Squeamishness T 
Supernatural T 
XTC Crack T 
Unsorted Routes:

The Great Drain 

YDS: 5.10b French: 6a+ Ewbanks: 19 UIAA: VII- ZA: 19 British: E2 5b

Type:  Trad, 5 pitches
Original:  YDS: 5.10b French: 6a+ Ewbanks: 19 UIAA: VII- ZA: 19 British: E2 5b [details]
FA: Harry Young, Robin Barley
Page Views: 519
Submitted By: Hans on Jan 25, 2015

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BETA PHOTO: Pitch 3 of The Great Game goes up the 10c corner o...


On the main wall of Slhanay, the Great Drain is located just right of the Great Game and is a yet another nice moderate climb on this crag.

P1: 35m, 5.7 Climb a nice corner crack to a small ledge and a bolted anchor. This pitch is shared with Deviant's Games.

P2: 30m, 5.10b Climb up a wide flake. Deviant's Games heads right here. For the Great Drain, continue up towards an offwidth and squeeze chimney in a corner. Some laybacking mitigates using much actual offwidth trickery, and no big gear is required as the wide part is fully protected by bolts. For comparison, I found this to be much easier than the chimney pitch on Borderline.

P3: 40m, 5.10a Climb up through some somewhat hollow flakes to a crack that leads up and right to the belay. Alternately, instead of going right it is possible to go left and join in with pitch 3 of the Great Game and finish as for that route.

Two options are possible for the rest of the climb.

Option A (recommended)

P4: 15m, 5.10c Climb up and left on a slab past 3-4 bolts to the belay at the end of pitch 3 of the Great Game.

P5: 35m, 5.10c Climb up though a short overhanging face on big holds past two bolts, then follow cracks and slabby ledges up and right. Belay at trees. Mostly easy with a short crux right at the beginning. This is the final pitch of the Great Game.

Option B

P4-5: Easy fifth Climb up and right over slabby ledges and discontinuous cracks, eventually joining in with the finish of Jungle Warfare

Descend via the marked trail back to the base of the route. A 4th class down climb through a chimney is required. Alternatively, hike up the trail towards the summit until you find a trail branching climber's right. This trail leads to the base with no technical difficulty.


Take the regular Slhanay trail from the Mamquam FSR to reach the main wall. The Great Drain begins just right of where the trail reaches the base of the wall.


A typical Squamish rack to 3" will suffice. Double up on BD 0.75 and 1 or equivalent.

Photos of The Great Drain Slideshow Add Photo
Rock Climbing Photo: Pitch 2 of The Great Drain
Pitch 2 of The Great Drain

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