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South Face of Arthur's Rock
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The Great Corner 

YDS: 5.9 French: 5c Ewbanks: 17 UIAA: VI ZA: 17 British: HVS 5a

   
Type:  Trad, 2 pitches, 150'
Original:  YDS: 5.9 French: 5c Ewbanks: 17 UIAA: VI ZA: 17 British: HVS 5a [details]
FA: Unknown
Season: Fall, Winter and Spring
Page Views: 1,086
Submitted By: Ben Scott on Feb 20, 2013

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (5)
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BETA PHOTO: Maybe a little easier if you move into the middle ...

Description 

The Great Corner is the large, right-facing corner/chimney system up the South Face of Arthur's Rock.

Pitch 1: climb the wide crack/runnel system up and left to where it widens to a chimney. Belay at the 2-bolt anchor (1/2"x3" SS 5-piece anchor installed on 3/30/14) at the first obvious ledge/break.

Pitch 2: climb a tricky wide crack to easier terrain to the top.

Descent: most parties will lower from the P1 anchor (60m rope required). From the summit/end of P2, use the standard walk-off or use the Right of Passage rappels.

This route has obviously been done many times before, but the NCCC could never find any detailed info on it. If you know any history or have climbed the route before, please chime in.

Location 

To reach the South Face, hike up the Arthur’s Rock Trail for about 45-60 minutes. After you pass the Childbirth and Valhalla Boulders, the South Face is in view and off the trail on climber’s right.

Protection 

Standard rack plus a few wide pieces.


Photos of The Great Corner Slideshow Add Photo
Rock Climbing Photo: The Great Corner, 5.9.
BETA PHOTO: The Great Corner, 5.9.
Rock Climbing Photo: The Great Corner, 5.9.
The Great Corner, 5.9.

Comments on The Great Corner Add Comment
Show which comments
By climber76
From: Loveland/Vail, CO
Sep 26, 2013

A really bad route.
By nruea
From: . . . CO
Dec 13, 2013
rating: 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a

No way. . . this is a good adventure route in a fun (albeit fairly manky) chimney, with great southern exposure. The most obvious nat line on the rock. Kor would've loved it!

The crux (exiting the alcove OH on P2) is pretty damned sketch! Maybe a bolt on the slab to protect that crucial exit move?
If you stay in the CH/crack, it becomes considerably more difficult than 5.9 to climb out. You can RO on the moderate slab aside the crux moves, but a fall would be ouch.
By nruea
From: . . . CO
Feb 17, 2014
rating: 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a

I like topping out. . . so it would be cool to see some sort of variation/protection to exit the roof on the right.
By Max Supertramp
Dec 11, 2015

Yellow Totem cam and a BD #3.5 were better than nothing at the face crux of p1. Yellow c3 might have worked too.

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