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The Great Chimney 

YDS: 5.6 French: 4c Ewbanks: 14 UIAA: V ZA: 12 British: S 4b

Type:  Trad, 5 pitches, 800', Grade III
Original:  YDS: 5.6 French: 4c Ewbanks: 14 UIAA: V ZA: 12 British: S 4b [details]
FA: Old timers
Page Views: 2,744
Submitted By: Orphaned on Aug 5, 2005

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (13)
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This is one of the lower pitches of The Great Chim...


This route is a good adventure route. There are no particular sections of brilliant climbing, however the route in its entirety is good. Know how to climb chimneys, and you'll send easily. There isn't a need to lug any big cams up there, as there are gear possibilities everywhere.Iv'e heard this route is good in March, as a consolidated snow climb.You can rap the route via multiple sections of bomber stainless steel anchors. Thanks goes out to whomever drilled those bolts!



Bring a small free rack, and long slings.Only on rope is needed to rappel the routeMake sure to bring small to medium nuts, there are tons of spots for stoppers.

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By tenesmus
Sep 25, 2005

Its fun to finish on Kamp's Ridge.
By Christian "crisco" Burrell
From: PG, Utah
Jul 15, 2007

Whomever has cut out the approach trail: THANK YOU!!! We soloed the first pitch without realizing it. We didn't realize this until we reached a bolted rap anchor (dangerous "American triangle"). We had heard that you can rap the whole route with one rope, but the first two pitches either don't have enough rap anchors, or we missed them. As for the route itself, the pitches actually are not really long as the guidebook describes. The climbing isn't difficult and not really classic. Pro is pretty good. The third pitch was probably the best. The fourth (last) had lots of loose looking blocks so we climbed a wide crack over a small roof to the left of the main line (This variation was really fun). Send me an email if you want any beta.
By ddriver
From: SLC
Sep 10, 2009

Do this route in late March or April with consolidated snow and its an excellent climb. Approach and descent are also good with snow.
By Nick Bose
Oct 13, 2012

Has anyone tried this as a winter mixed climb? Was wondering what the snow and ice conditions would be like in December through February.
By Ben Folsom
Oct 15, 2012

Nick, yes, the great chimney in the right conditions can be a good ice/winter climb. Like ddriver said, probably better in march or april when snow conditions are consolidated. I have done it in the winter before, and had great sections of mixed ice and rock. Be cautious of avalanche conditions, the approach and climb are exposed to avalanche hazard.

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