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The Great Ape Escape 

YDS: 5.11a French: 6c Ewbanks: 22 UIAA: VII+ ZA: 22 British: E3 5c

Type:  Trad, Sport, Alpine, 1 pitch, 70'
Original:  YDS: 5.11a French: 6c Ewbanks: 22 UIAA: VII+ ZA: 22 British: E3 5c [details]
FA: Patrick Curry
New Route: Yes
Season: May to October
Page Views: 69
Submitted By: Roy Suggett on Jul 20, 2009

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BETA PHOTO: Red is The Great Ape Escape Yellow is Goodall Time...


This sport crack/face has it's crux at the start. The thin crack opens periodically for finger jambs. At the sixth bolt with the gray hanger, you may opt to go left to a lie-backing flake where large cams are needed, or go straight up to bolt and difficult face climbing. Both options lead to the same anchor.


This route, in the "Upper Jungle," is characterized by a smooth, red band of rock at the base where a thin crack leads to two close-to-the-ground bolts. It is just right of "Climbers in the Mist."


Quick draws and a couple of medium to large cams to shunts.

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Rock Climbing Photo: This is how we put up the route
This is how we put up the route

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By Pat C
From: Honolulu
Jul 23, 2009

Difficult boulder problem start (harder than 11a, but not crazy) followed by 5.9 and 5.10 moves, I think. Fun climb.

Real FA: Roy Suggett, Rich Magner, Pat Curry
By Roy Suggett
Oct 11, 2010

The majority of the route is 10a/b and has some really fun moves. Do not dispair with the hard start. Using a cheater stone you can clip the first bolt with a runner, then step in and clip the second bolt. This keeps you safe and able to reach the rest of the climb.
By Cristina M
Jul 21, 2011

Awesome start with beautiful movement, but definitely harder than 11a. The rest of the climb is athletic with some great moves. Very fun.
By Boissal
From: Small Lake, UT
Jul 2, 2012
rating: 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a

5.11a A0 or 5.11d. That crux is V3/V4 and doesn't favor tall people.
The rest of the route is fun and a bit funky (odd hand jams), the start and the proximity to the trad line on the left just didn't do it for me.

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