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Great Ah Ha, The T 
Matrix, The T 
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Unsorted Routes:

The Great Ah Ha 

YDS: 5.12b French: 7b Ewbanks: 26 UIAA: VIII+ ZA: 26 British: E5 6b

   
Type:  Trad, 8 pitches, 750', Grade IV
Original:  YDS: 5.12b French: 7b Ewbanks: 26 UIAA: VIII+ ZA: 26 British: E5 6b [details]
FA: FA: Arno Ilgner, Steve Jones (1997) FFA: Arno Ilgner, Stever Jones (August, 1999)
Season: When the falcons let you
Page Views: 498
Submitted By: Ryan7crew on Oct 31, 2013  with updates from Brian Abram

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (2)
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pitch 5, I think

Seasonal Falcon Closure MORE INFO >>>

Description 

A good route to do after you have done all the trademark headwall routes. Overall a little chossier than Vol Wall and more run out than the Matrix. Never though did I feel like I would pull off blocks the size of my chest like I did on Vol Wall. Just a constant rain of pebbles and foot chips down on the belayer. Definitely though has some of the hardest manditory free climbing I have experienced yet out there. No simple aid tricks to get you through some of the committing 5.11 climbing. If you want some more adventure at Whitesides (like there isn't enough already) this is the route to get on.

The first 3 anchors had massive tatapuses on them with 2 rap rings each, its at least 10 years old. Some one should go up there with a knife and cut it down. In case you have no common sense, DON'T USE IT.

The following information is to be used along side the guidebook description:
Pitch 1) Bring the #4, slings, C3s, and big balls up this pitch. Starts with easy and protect climbing. This climbing quickly turns to 5.9 R while in the act of pulling the corner. (I believe the grass has grown in the unflaired crack, leaving only really failed crack. I jabbed a .5 in the least flaired spot but it wouldn't of done much good.) After that sack up and enter the 5.7 X traverse zone. You will quickly see why. Finally, a blind yellow C3 placed at your feet lets you stop feeling like you are gonna vomit. Don't be a dummy, put a sling on it and the next bolt. The crux can be french freed with a red c3 if you feel so inclined.

Pitch 2) Find the best way off the belay so that you don't land on your belayer or throw hollow flakes at him. I think we placed a nut on this pitch.

Pitch 3) The marathon pitch. Lots of gear in the first 30 and last 30 feet, two bolts in the middle section, but the hardest move is protected. 180 feet total climbing on this pitch, you do the math on the runouts. Lots of route finding.

Pitch 4) Awesome exposure with mandatory and committing 5.11 climbing.

Pitch 5) Short pitch but it packs a punch. I would rate it 11D A0. We had a trecking pole in the bag that we used as a stick clip and pulled through the crux with that. Its a stupid hard boulder problem and everytime you blow it you either kick your belayer or land on him. Note that the rotten band for Vol Wall runs through this pitch as well. Probably the coolest move of the route though guards the anchors.

Pitch 6) The guidebook description is pretty accurate, "dicey" it is. Bring the 4 up this pitch as well.

Pitch 7) 3 seperate cruxes, the second being the hardest but all pretty much the same move. Last one is over gear, so bring some. Each crux gets dirtier and mossier as you go. The traverse at the end can be protected with gear. Its is however, buried under an inch of licken.

Pitch 8) Same last pitch for vol wall and arm and hammer. Talk to the amazed tourists and tell them that was really you on 60 minutes.

Location 

Look for the warriors way roof, then continue right less than 50 ft to the obvious dihedral.

Protection 

Lot of draws. Single run of C3s and C4s to 4. Couple 2 ft slings, atleast 1 4 ft sling for the first and last pitch.


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