REI Community
The Refuge
Routes Sorted
L to R R to L Alpha
Cortez S 
Grand Finale, The S 
Grandfather Sky S 
Love Letter S 

The Grand Finale 

YDS: 5.12b French: 7b Ewbanks: 26 UIAA: VIII+ ZA: 26 British: E5 6b

   
Type:  Sport, 55'
Original:  YDS: 5.12b French: 7b Ewbanks: 26 UIAA: VIII+ ZA: 26 British: E5 6b [details]
FA: Jeremy Collins
Page Views: 448
Submitted By: Ryan Surface on Oct 29, 2016

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (5)
Your todo list:
Your stars:
Your rating: -none- [change]
Your ticklist: [add new tick]
Your opinion of this PAGE:    [0 people like this page.]
Working that roof

Description 

A Missouri masterpiece, start in a Dihedral leading to an overhanging roof, pull the roof to a standing rest and continue for more overhanging jugs leading to a thin redpoint crux.

Protection 

Bolts

Description 

A Missouri masterpiece, start in a Dihedral leading to an overhanging roof, pull the roof to a standing rest and continue for more overhanging jugs leading to a thin redpoint crux.

Protection 

Bolts


Photos of The Grand Finale Slideshow Add Photo
Rock Climbing Photo: Blazing Blake Bennett tackling the first roof
Blazing Blake Bennett tackling the first roof

Comments on The Grand Finale Add Comment
Show which comments
By Spencer Scott
From: Kansas City, MO
Feb 13, 2017

This thing has dope movement. It climbs very well and will only get better in a year or so when the feet clean up and the thin stuff flakes off. The drag is miserable, and you will have to have an effective system to switch either to a second rope for a redpoint.

Best method:

Belayer uses an ATC, feeding dual ropes.

Climber uses a locker on double figure eight on a bight, clipping this into ONLY the belay loop to avoid cross loading (Red Team). The second rope is tied into your harness as usual, through your hardpoints (Blue Team).

Climb to the first set of anchors, clipping the permadraws with Red Team. At the first set of anchors past the roof, clip Blue Team into both draws. Unclip Red team from your belay loop and leave it hanging on the 1st set of anchors, climb to the second set of anchors on Blue Team. Lower on Blue Team from the top and grab Red Team on the way down.

You are always on belay this way.

Mountain Project

The Definitive Climbing Resource

MTB Project

Next Generation MTB Trail Maps

Powder Project

Backcountry Ski Maps & Secret Stashes
FREE Stickers · Gyms · RSS · School of Rock · Contact · About