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Gorgon, The T 
Turn to Stone T 

The Gorgon 

YDS: 5.8 French: 5b Ewbanks: 16 UIAA: VI- ZA: 15 British: HVS 4c

Type:  Trad, 1 pitch, 110'
Original:  YDS: 5.8 French: 5b Ewbanks: 16 UIAA: VI- ZA: 15 British: HVS 4c [details]
FA: Sonia Buckley, Tony Bubb, Nov. 2015
New Route: Yes
Season: faces South, closed Feb.-July for raptor nesting
Page Views: 143
Submitted By: Tony B on Nov 11, 2015

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BETA PHOTO: Pulling through the looming roof up top.

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  • Description 

    The Gorgon route is directly nearby and somewhat similar to Turn To Stone. The bulge/roof up top is split by cracks and has a few jugs that limit the difficulty of the climbing to 5.8, however. It is surprisingly easy relative to its initial appearance from the ground, and jugs abound.


    The Gorgon lies about midway up on the South face of upper Medusa. This is just down and left of 'Turn to Stone'. The route starts through the left side of a roof at a human-sized "pocket" in a large bulge with the first crux there and then passes through the double cracks at the right side of the upper roof to the right of T.T.S. for a second crux. See the attached beta photo for details. This climb is longer than it looks due to a zoom on the image.


    A light rack to 3". Crux gear up top is a purple, green ,and yellow Camalot, in that order. Save at least the #0.5 and #0.75. The #2 is optional. The belay is 4 meters up the E. face in a very good horizontal crack and takes mixed cams as well.

    Photos of The Gorgon Slideshow Add Photo
    Rock Climbing Photo: Sonia places the #2 Camalot before pulling the upp...
    Sonia places the #2 Camalot before pulling the upp...

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