REI Community
The Towers
Routes Sorted
L to R R to L Alpha
Bell Out of Order S 
Clip Clip Here, Clip Clip There S 
Dark Side of Oz, The S 
Ding Dong S 
Good Witch, The S 
Lullabye League S 
Miss Gultch S 
Toto Goes to Chicago S 
Wash & Brush Up Co. S 
We Wish to Welcome You S 
Which Old Witch S 

The Good Witch 

YDS: 5.4 French: 4a Ewbanks: 12 UIAA: IV ZA: 10 British: VD 3c

Type:  Sport
Original:  YDS: 5.4 French: 4a Ewbanks: 12 UIAA: IV ZA: 10 British: VD 3c [details]
FA: Scott Ayers
Page Views: 2,343
Submitted By: Scott Tucker on May 9, 2006

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (40)
Your todo list:
Your stars:
Your rating: -none- [change]
Your ticklist: [add new tick]
Your opinion of this PAGE:    [0 people like this page.]
Duffy working on his flash of Good Witch, his seco...


Great first lead.


Left route on the low wall past the first two towers.


Bolts & chains.

Photos of The Good Witch Slideshow Add Photo
Rock Climbing Photo: Chalking up my feet after the crux, or before it, ...
Chalking up my feet after the crux, or before it, ...
Rock Climbing Photo: Good Witch..
Good Witch..

Comments on The Good Witch Add Comment
Show which comments
By Braxtron
From: ...
Mar 23, 2007

Hard to give this climb any stars. However, it's a perfect first outdoor climb, since: it's ueber easy, there's a 5.5 next door, and plenty of other easy climbs nearby. Too bad about the droves of people, though.

Note to you guys who want your first outdoor lead to be a 5.7: practice on really easy stuff, like this climb, to get the basics down. I've seen too many people nearly kill themselves because of a terrible mix of pride & stupidity.
By Adam Block
From: Tucson, AZ
Jun 25, 2010
rating: 5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c

Thanks for bolting this one Scott! I'm giving it three stars for being the best 5.4 on Lemmon.

This is a perfect first climb for anybody and there aren't many people willing to stick the time and money into bolting 5.4s so major points for bolting a climb for everybody!
By A.P.T.
From: Truckee,Ca
Jun 25, 2010

I remember taking some big whippers on this one. Pretty damn hard for a 5.4 Its more like a 5.5 +
By Adam Block
From: Tucson, AZ
Jun 25, 2010
rating: 5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c

You'd need one hell of a running start to take a whipper on this one, good thing for the huge ledges up top.
By KristinaB
From: Tucson, AZ
Sep 1, 2011

This was my second outdoor lead climb ever; easier than the first as I was comforted in knowing what to do upon reaching the chains. The is an ideal climb for a first time lead especially with the ledge in there- gives one a moment to celebrate their courage!
By Kerry Mc
From: Lawrence, KS
May 31, 2012
rating: 5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c

Fun & friendly route for a first lead & drilling some basics (rappelling, cleaning, coaching gym climbers to stop to looking for tape). An excellent welcome to Mt Lemmon- thanks!
By Toby Wehler
From: Chicago, IL
Mar 31, 2013
rating: 5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c

Cool to see a nice bolted streak in the wall is pretty sweet.
By Brandon Baldwin
From: Sahuarita, AZ
May 5, 2013
rating: 5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c

Definately a 5.4. I can't tell the difference between 5.4 and 5.5, but my 7 year old can just barely climb 5.4s and he was able to make it to the top.
By Seth Remer
Aug 25, 2017

Hey does anybody know if you can get off this route by climbing past the chains and walking down the back side? I forget if there's technical climbing past the anchor or not. Thanks!

Mountain Project

The Definitive Climbing Resource

MTB Project

Next Generation MTB Trail Maps

Powder Project

Backcountry Ski Maps & Secret Stashes
FREE Stickers · Gyms · RSS · School of Rock · Contact · About