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The Good, The Bad, and The Ugly 

YDS: 5.8 French: 5b Ewbanks: 16 UIAA: VI- ZA: 15 British: HVS 4c

   
Type:  Trad, 1 pitch, 100'
Original:  YDS: 5.8 French: 5b Ewbanks: 16 UIAA: VI- ZA: 15 British: HVS 4c [details]
FA: 
Page Views: 937
Submitted By: Benjaminadk on Sep 26, 2012

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (21)
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BETA PHOTO: After the small roof 1/3rd on The Good, The Bad, a...

Description 

Pull left around the arete to a stance already 50 feet of the deck. Foot traverse left and move up to the base of a 4 inch OW crack. Climb the bolt protected crack (or bring big cams)making a tricky mantle to the top of a free standing pillar. Another tricky move leads to a piton and sustained jug hauling to an optional belay/rap at a tree. Continue past tree through cracks to the top another 20 feet. Making way to the high anchor of Bozeman Bullet. Its a fun route and has a few committing but well protected moves.

Location 

Same start as Bozeman Bullet. There is cord on a tree 3/4 of the way up the route. Optional belay. Rap same as Bozeman.

Protection 

There is a fixed pin once you pull around the arete at the start. There are two bolts next to the OW crack. Large cams could be used instead BD #4,#5. Gear to #3 is useful. Another fixed pin after OW pinches shut.


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By KVRob
May 3, 2014

Starting this route with the variation listed in the guidebook seems the best way. It is is the logical line, and adds a good bit of climbing. Getting to the overhang is fairly mellow, and the climbing over the hang is deceptively easy on bomber holds with great gear. It deposits you at the base of the off width. Really good climbing. I would add another half star to this.
By Nick Weinberg
From: Lyme, NH
Aug 28, 2014

Yes, I would agree. Begin this route from the ground just before the trail heads uphill to the climbs to the right. Makes it a full length more aesthetic line and a quality pitch. The roof looks harder than it is and protects very well. Then the upper climbing is really fun.
By Francis QC
From: Montreal
Apr 13, 2015
rating: 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c

Take a lot of runners or alpine quickdraws to reduce drag, with the small roof and the several ledges along the way it becomes pretty hard to clip in the last section.

If you do the variation from lower ground before the stairs, the length of the route is a little less than 40 meters. A belay on the tree waits for you at the very top ledge, rappel on the face of Bozeman Bullet.
By Gunkiemike
Aug 26, 2016

Another vote for doing it "from the base". A long pitch with varied climbing and numerous challenges. Reminiscent of the Gunks' "Last Will be First" (though harder of course).

There was no sling on the tree 20' down from the top (nor should there be IMO) today, but a 70m rope from the hemlock atop the route got us down to the base of Bozeman Bullet. There was enough extra rope that I suspect a 60m rope would suffice.
By Kurtz
Sep 29, 2016

Definitely do this route from the bottom. Belay from the tat anchor on the big tree up and left of the top-out. If you're using a single 60m rope, rapp off the Bozeman Bullet drop-ins just below the top-out on the right.
By Nolan Huther
From: Clarkson University
Aug 7, 2017

There was a wasps nest in a crack next to the bottom of the offwidth on 8/6/2017

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