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Vampire Rock
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A.C.E. S 
Blood Doll S 
Bureau (Pitch 1), The S 
Chupacabra T 
Climb-Eye-Knight S 
Crack of Desperation T 
Fear of Sunlight S 
Good, The Bad, and The Jacked, The T 
Heart of the Narrows S 
Le Stat S 
Monkey's Sister S 
Monkey's Uncle S 
Pin Cushion S 
Politician, The S 
Stage Fright T 
That's Weak S,TR 
Trash It and Move On T,S 
Vampire, The T 
Wanker S 

The Good, The Bad, and The Jacked 

YDS: 5.12a French: 7a+ Ewbanks: 25 UIAA: VIII+ ZA: 25 British: E5 6a

Type:  Trad, 2 pitches, 150'
Original:  YDS: 5.12a French: 7a+ Ewbanks: 25 UIAA: VIII+ ZA: 25 British: E5 6a [details]
FA: S. Sangdahl, D. Salisbury, J. Baldwin
Page Views: 4,672
Submitted By: David A. Turner on Sep 30, 2002  with updates from Rich Farnham

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (58)
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Ian Achey on The Good, The Bad, and The Jacked. Ph...

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  • Description 

    This is a great route on super stone. Do That's Weak to get up to a big ledge with a chain anchor. Belay here or just keep going.

    The angle freshens a bit, and the rock is a beautiful gold color through here, with some interesting holds for granite. Climb into an alcove on the left for a rest. Then tackle the overhanging headwall above (crux). Lower back to the ledge, and rap from the chain anchors to the ground. With a 70 meter rope, you can climb That's Weak and TG, TB, &TJ in one pitch and lower off, but put a knot in the end of the rope!!


    About 9 bolts with a two bolt chain anchor. Bring a bunch more draws if you combine it with That's Weak for one long ultra pitch.

    Photos of The Good, The Bad, and The Jacked Slideshow Add Photo
    Rock Climbing Photo: T.G., T.B., & T.J.
    T.G., T.B., & T.J.
    Rock Climbing Photo: North Face of Vampire Rock. photo: Bob Horan.
    North Face of Vampire Rock. photo: Bob Horan.

    Comments on The Good, The Bad, and The Jacked Add Comment
    Show which comments
    By stephen sangdahl
    Oct 2, 2002

    one can also lead this from the ground by climbing "thats weak" and going directly into "the good,the bad,and the jacked". makes for a nice long pitch(2 ropes to get off,or 2 rappells)f.a. s.sangdahl,d.salisbury,j.baldwin
    By Alan Higham
    Jun 19, 2005

    Great pitch. Easy to mess up the onsight (as I did!). With the beta it's quite a bit easier. Very well bolted apart from the runout section off the belay.
    By ac
    Jun 23, 2005

    One of the best 12a's in the Canyon... climbs kind of like limestone.3 stars when combined with That's Weak. Just wish the meat were longer. A 60m rope will just get you back to the ground with a little shenanigans... definitely keep a knot in the end though.
    By Curt MacNeill
    From: Boulder, CO
    Aug 31, 2011

    Very well bolted and safe. I think it deserves another star in the guidebook though. Combining it with That's Weak (fun thought provoking 10a) makes for an incredibly long pitch where the climbing gets progressively harder on the upper half. Great route! Tie a knot in the end of your rope....
    By Peter J. Beyel
    From: Glenwood Springs
    Jul 17, 2013
    rating: 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a

    Phenomenal rock climb. Definitely worth doing the 10a into this pitch for the full value 70m rope stretcher.
    By Dwight Jugornot
    From: Arvada, Co.
    Aug 14, 2013
    rating: 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a

    I agree, one of the best at the grade. Powerful and sustained crux.
    Technique pays huge dividends here as well as spotting a key rest. This would be a stout onsight. That's theory, of course.
    By Evan Deis
    Oct 17, 2013

    Rule #1. Sorry.
    By Mr. Stevens
    From: Boulder, CO
    Aug 27, 2017
    rating: 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a

    Put an extra long draw or sling on the 4th bolt of That's Weak if linking pitches to alleviate rope drag. Fantastic route, one of the true gems in BoCan....

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