REI Community
search
Great Chimney Area
Routes Sorted
L to R R to L Alpha
Bastard Chimney, The T,TR 
Coup d'Etat T,TR 
Cracker Jack T,TR 
Dirty Day TR 
Get Jacked T,TR 
Good, the Bad, and the Jacked (Direct), The T,TR 
Good, the Bad, and the Jacked, The T,TR 
Handle With Care T,TR 
Hiker Envy T,TR 
Hot Beef Injection T 
Match the Snatch T,TR 
Milking the Bull TR 
Overlooked T,TR 
Pale Rider T 
Perverted Inspiration T,TR 
Practice Chimney  T 
Son Of Great Chimney T 
Son of Great Chimney Direct T,TR 
Whipping Boy T 
Wild West T,TR 

The Good, the Bad, and the Jacked 

YDS: 5.12 French: 7b+ Ewbanks: 27 UIAA: VIII+ ZA: 26 British: E6 6b R

   
Type:  Trad, TR, 1 pitch, 40'
Original:  YDS: 5.12 French: 7b+ Ewbanks: 27 UIAA: VIII+ ZA: 26 British: E6 6b R [details]
FA: First lead: John Scott, 1985
Page Views: 4,210
Submitted By: Kris Gorny on Jun 1, 2003

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (7)
Your todo list:
Your stars:
Your rating: -none- [change]
Your ticklist: [add new tick]
Your opinion of this PAGE:    [1 person likes this page.]
Dave Groth on The Good, the Bad, and the Jacked. 1...

Description 

The route climbs the blank face roughly 30ft left of Cracker Jack. Start at the toe of the huge flake underneath a shallow corner with an old fixed piton. Ascend he flake rightwards to the ledge, place reasonable pro (#2 or #3 cam), move left and and make exceedingly desperate moves up a shallow corner. Pass the fixed piton and veer slightly right to a decent rest (it's possible to place small pro here). After the rest execute a burly move to a horizontal hold (pro) immediately traversing left for another in-your-face section in a thin crack.

This is a 5.12 on steroids. I'd give it 5.12c, but people would laugh at me. Hats off to the first ascentionists, regardless what grade.

Protection 

BD #2 or #3 cams protect the initial moves from the pedestal. After the fixed piton, it's pretty spaced small pro (rp's, c3's and small aliens) to the top.

The embedded video clip below shows most gear placements (beta alert).


Photos of The Good, the Bad, and the Jacked Slideshow Add Photo
Rock Climbing Photo: The Good, the Bad, and the Jacked. Some jacked seq...
The Good, the Bad, and the Jacked. Some jacked seq...
Rock Climbing Photo: Old school trad
Old school trad
Rock Climbing Photo: Pete from SLC. Andrew Burr getting the shot.
Pete from SLC. Andrew Burr getting the shot.
Rock Climbing Photo: the good, the bad, the JACKED
the good, the bad, the JACKED
Rock Climbing Photo: Dave Groth on lead
Dave Groth on lead
Rock Climbing Photo: Tube socks lead
Tube socks lead
Rock Climbing Photo: The Good, the Bad, and the Jacked. Placing some ja...
The Good, the Bad, and the Jacked. Placing some ja...
Rock Climbing Photo: FFA of the Good the Bad, and the Jacked. John Scot...
FFA of the Good the Bad, and the Jacked. John Scot...
Rock Climbing Photo: Remo
Remo
Rock Climbing Photo: Peter Vintoniv. Photo by Andrew Burr.
Peter Vintoniv. Photo by Andrew Burr.
Rock Climbing Photo: Another perspective of TGTBTJacked.  Jerry working...
Another perspective of TGTBTJacked. Jerry working...

Comments on The Good, the Bad, and the Jacked Add Comment
Show which comments
Comments displayed oldest to newestSkip Ahead to the Most Recent Dated Jun 22, 2014
By JJ Schlick
Administrator
From: Flagstaff, AZ
Aug 6, 2006

Definitely one of the coolest 12s at the lake. I would go ahead and give it 4 stars because of the moves and positioning.
By David A Groth
From: Lacrosse
Oct 25, 2006

First lead by John Scott in 1985. Exciting lead deserves an R rating.
By Remo
From: Madison, WI
Apr 21, 2011
rating: 5.12a/b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6a

This is a great route. Not very long, but the climbing is technical and a bit powerful. If your looking for quality Lake 5.12's this one should be on the list.
By Burt Lindquist
Administrator
From: Madison, WI
Apr 26, 2011

I have always thought this is one of the best routes at Devil's Lake and certainly of the best of the West Bluff. The holds are so small but super positive in places and require just the right pull angle and feet placement.... throw in a couple of big throws to big holds... fun. There is so much shifting of the body position on this climb... so very little just crimp'n straight down..
By Remo
From: Madison, WI
Apr 26, 2011
rating: 5.12a/b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6a

Well said Burt.
By Tradiban
Sep 10, 2011

Toughest in the initial section just after the piton. Is it just laybacking hard in the crimps of the crack? I couldn't get it to go.
By Remo
From: Madison, WI
Aug 14, 2013
rating: 5.12a/b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6a

I realized yesterday that there are two ways to finish this route. One is to move left and climb thin crack(the way I'm doing it in picture-5.12b) or move a bit right and climb good slot crimps(the way Peter V. is climbing in picture-5.12a with better gear). How do most people finish?
By Remo
From: Madison, WI
Jun 9, 2014
rating: 5.12a/b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6a

Yo Nezbit,

I've always started the climb by stepping off the ledge and traversing left along the mini-roof into the thin section to start the technical part(As the pic of Scott and Dave on the first lead). I would love to know how other people finish it too. I hope this helps. Cheers!
By Nezbit
Jun 10, 2014

Thanks Remo!
By JJ Schlick
Administrator
From: Flagstaff, AZ
Jun 21, 2014

This route deserves a more fitting description. It does a disservice to us all, when people describe routes as top rope problems when they have been lead, and a long time ago at that.
By Chris treggE
Administrator
From: Madison, WI
Jun 22, 2014

Ok. Who wants it? Kris?

Mountain Project

The Definitive Climbing Resource

MTB Project

Next Generation MTB Trail Maps

Powder Project

Backcountry Ski Maps & Secret Stashes
FREE Stickers · Gyms · RSS · School of Rock · Contact · About