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Great Chimney Area
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Bastard Chimney, The T,TR 
Coup d'Etat T,TR 
Cracker Jack T,TR 
Dirty Day TR 
Get Jacked T,TR 
Good, the Bad, and the Jacked (Direct), The T,TR 
Good, the Bad, and the Jacked, The T,TR 
Handle With Care T,TR 
Hiker Envy T,TR 
Hot Beef Injection T 
Match the Snatch T,TR 
Milking the Bull TR 
Overlooked T,TR 
Pale Rider T 
Perverted Inspiration T,TR 
Practice Chimney  T 
Son Of Great Chimney T 
Son of Great Chimney Direct T,TR 
Whipping Boy T 
Wild West T,TR 

The Good, the Bad, and the Jacked (Direct) 

YDS: 5.12c French: 7b+ Ewbanks: 27 UIAA: IX- ZA: 27 British: E6 6b R

   
Type:  Trad, TR, 1 pitch, 55'
Original:  YDS: 5.12c French: 7b+ Ewbanks: 27 UIAA: IX- ZA: 27 British: E6 6b R [details]
FA: Michael Shaffer
New Route: Yes
Page Views: 1,086
Submitted By: Nezbit on Jun 14, 2014

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (1)
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BETA PHOTO: Sewn up: looking back on the lead!

Description 

On-Sight Beta:
Climb straight up the face directly beneath the roof that marks the beginning of The Good, the Bad, and the Jacked. Move left to a thin crack and continue to the top after the big move on the original line.

Flash Beta:
Powerful, sustained, and unprotected climbing leads into the original line put up by John Scott. A fall before establishing on the flared vertical just above the roof is certain to be unpleasant. A very shallow yet good #1 C4 can be placed in the flare and protects the climber while pulling the roof. A piton waits above. Marginal, micro gear is available just before the big move ahead and a good placement is available right after. After the big move, do a short traverse left to a thin crack and prepare for a third crux section.

Location 

The direct start begins beneath a small roof approximately 15ft. off the deck (level with the beginning of the original line), climbing the narrow face on the right side of the Get Jacked corner in order to meet up with The Good, The Bad, and The Jacked.

Protection 

Route: 000 BD C3 - #1 BD C4, or equivalent, and draws.
Anchor: 2-3 #3 BD C4, or equivalent, and cordelettes/long webbing.


Photos of The Good, the Bad, and the Jacked (Direct) Slideshow Add Photo
Rock Climbing Photo: Hi Nezbit. Is this what you refer to as "movi...
Hi Nezbit. Is this what you refer to as "movi...
Rock Climbing Photo: Direct Start
BETA PHOTO: Direct Start

Comments on The Good, the Bad, and the Jacked (Direct) Add Comment
Show which comments
By Tradiban
Jun 17, 2014

Shit ya. Props. I would like to see this climb go sans pin. My plan was to pull the pin and place a ball-nut in its place. I never felt comfortable on the crux moves though.
By Nezbit
Jun 17, 2014

Thanks!

I can see the appeal of a sans-pin-accent. I do not know about pulling it though--just not well enough established in the area to make that call for the local climbing community. But it seems like there are lots of folks around that know their stuff and DL's too! For what it's worth, if I repeat the climb and the pin is still there I will clip it again without hesitation, cringe, and carry on.

Hope to see you at the Lake sometime!
By Tradiban
Jun 19, 2014

Pull the pin. If a Ball-Nut didn't fit I was going to put in a new one on lead. That was the plan anyway. Bought a pin but left the area a month later so never got to it.
The only opinion that matters is the FA of course but I would think that anything more hard-core than clipping something you didn't place on lead would be perfectly acceptable to the DLFA.

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