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The Good Ol' Days 

YDS: 5.11b/c French: 6c+ Ewbanks: 23 UIAA: VIII- ZA: 24 British: E4 6a

   
Type:  Sport, 6 pitches
Original:  YDS: 5.11b/c French: 6c+ Ewbanks: 23 UIAA: VIII- ZA: 24 British: E4 6a [details]
FA: Thomas Emde 2004
Page Views: 476
Submitted By: Jon Rhoderick on May 21, 2016

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BETA PHOTO: The Good Ol' Days starts near the center of th...

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Description 

Good Ol' Days is a high quality multipitch route that makes it's way up the the Platform (North Tower of Smith Rock Group)

P1: start on a steep hillside to the right of two ponderosa pines. The first bolt is an expansion bolt, the second is a glue in. Easy climbing on crumbling rock leads to a step across on thin holds. The rock improves the higher you get. 11a 12 bolts

P2: head up and left clipping two bolts, then place a piece or two. Clip the third bolt and traverse left to a pleasant slab. This pitch can be easily linked with the subsequent pitch. 10b 7 bolts and gear

P3: continue on the pleasant slab with some cool fin shaped holds to a hand crack. Cross the crack and continue to the belay. 10a 5 bolts and gear.

P4: Money pitch! Step left and clip bomber glue ins as you climb a continuous flake crack. The rock can be sharp but it's very solid, steep, and exciting. Traverse again as the crack disappears to a hanging belay. 11b/c 9 bolts.

P5: start climbing on a steep slab with solid rock, eventually meeting with a crack (bolts). Easily linked into the next pitch. 10d 7 bolts

P6. The final pitch is mostly 5th class with a 5.6 move thrown in here or there. Protection is sparse and there are loose blocks, but if you have made it this far you should make short work of this pitch. 5.6 single belay bolt and high line anchor set back from edge

Descent:
A 5.2 down climb trending skiers left brings you to the summit plateau. Bring shoes and head left (south) for a long walk off or head right and rappel Wherever I May Roam's descent and go over Asterisk

Protection 

12 draws and slings, and a single rack. I had 3 gear placements on the whole route.


Photos of The Good Ol' Days Slideshow Add Photo
Rock Climbing Photo: Pitch 4
Pitch 4
Rock Climbing Photo: Rock alcove near the start of the route is conveni...
Rock alcove near the start of the route is conveni...
Rock Climbing Photo: View from the top
View from the top
Rock Climbing Photo: 5.11 flake on pitch 4
5.11 flake on pitch 4
Rock Climbing Photo: Belay for pitch 4 is shared with Freedom's Jus...
Belay for pitch 4 is shared with Freedom's Jus...
Rock Climbing Photo: Linda starting pitch 3
Linda starting pitch 3

Comments on The Good Ol' Days Add Comment
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By Kevin MP
From: Redmond, OR
Sep 25, 2016

A good route for the choss enthusiast. Second pitch has a very large loose block in the crack that is the at the point where you clip the 3rd bolt and traverse left out of the corner. It moved when touched, but is easy to stem around to avoid. P2+p3 link easily with some runnering. Crux pitch is lots of fun and the last pitch is continuous on good rock(until the 5th class rubble heap at the top). A small finger size piece or two would be nice on P2, besides that maybe a single BD #1, #2 should be sufficient, as all the difficult climbing is well-bolted.
By Stephen Sh
From: Portland
Oct 14, 2016

Fun climbing, adventure, and an escape from the crowds. After reading route descriptions for The Good Ol’ Days I was prepared for more loose rock than what I found. Not so bad. And long-time Smith climbers will enjoy saying “Remember The Good Ol’ Days?” A few notes about route conditions and gear:

Pitch 1 is long, around 180’. After the first 20’ I found the rock to be solid and didn’t break off any nubbins or flakes. Maybe it’s had enough traffic now to be mature. Long slings were helpful to reduce rope drag. P2 is around 100’ and crosses a corner crack and arête. The crack takes thin finger sizes. Easily stem around the loose toaster oven sized block in the crack bearing the white X. Long slings in the corner reduced the drag. P3 is around 90’ and crosses another crack and arête. The crack is fractured and loose low down and gets solid further up. Takes cams from finger to hand size. Long slings useful again. Fun slab climbing. Pitch 4 is steep and pumpy on solid rock. Fun climbing. If this pitch was at ground level there would be a steady line for it on weekends. The anchor above has a stance for feet but plan to be hanging in your harness. Pitches 1-4 all include some leftward traversing, but P5 heads straight up for 100’. The upper half follows a crack with some loose flakes – go carefully. Crack takes finger to thin hand sizes and my partner placed 3 cams here in addition to the glue-in bolts. P6 is short – 75’, low angle and loose. Use care here. I chose a right-trending path around the rubble above the belay. A short 5.6 step near the top is fairly solid for feet and hands, but the cracks and pods where you might place gear all have loose exfoliating rock. A white static line was fixed to a bolt at the top and wrapped around toward the finish for “Freedom’s Just Another Word”.

The walk-off to Asterisk Pass takes around 15-20 minutes. After the short down climb (est. 40’), cairns lead west around a rock pinnacle and then south to join the hiking trail to A pass.

It’s fun now, remembering The Good Ol’ Days at Smith.

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