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s. The Golden Wall

Routes Sorted
L to R R to L Alpha
Barndance, a.k.a. Crankmaster T's Arete TR 
Chris' Cringe or Hatti's Horror TR 
Completely Francois TR 
Fickle Fingers T,TR 
Golden Dream, The T,TR 
Jam On! T,TR 
Sinister Urge (formerly SLAM Dance) T 
Slot Machine T,TR 
Stinky Americans T,TR 
Super Skink TR 
Time for Therapy T,TR 

s. The Golden Wall Rock Climbing 

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Location: 41.73904, -74.21411 View Map  Incorrect?
Page Views: 13,350
Administrators: JSH, Kristine Hoffman (sitewide)
Submitted By: Taino Grosjean on Dec 14, 2006  with updates from George Grzyb
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Home to one of the most popular routes in PK, the Golden Wall area is tricky to reach, but worth every effort. Four of the several routes have double-bolted anchors. The amphitheater gathers the sun's heat on cold days, and with so many routes in close proximity is the closest thing to a "gym-like" atmosphere with a group. Routes from 5.6 to 5.12.

Getting There 

Exit the upper parking lot far end, go through the meadow and past the stream, to the large clearing. Turn right on the carriage road, then go left at the immediate fork. Follow the carriage road to where it starts to curve back; you'll see a blue/yellow triple blaze leading straight off towards some large boulders (bouldering area). Get to the first boulder and turn left off the blazed trail, heading towards the cliff. Aim for a small overhang close to the ground; there'll be a thick tree just to the right. Climb up a slab of rock past the tree (under a tree branch), cross a gap by stepping in the crotch of another tree, and emerge facing a tall, yellow wall with a large offwidth crack directly ahead and a fingercrack in a dihedral about 30 feet right of the offwidth. Approach is about 10 minutes if you know where to go; much longer, otherwise.

Climbing Season

Weather station 3.9 miles from here

11 Total Climbing Routes

['4 Stars',1],['3 Stars',5],['2 Stars',4],['1 Star',0],['Bomb',0]

Classic Climbing Routes in s. The Golden Wall

Mountain Project's determination of the classic, most popular, highest rated climbing routes for s. The Golden Wall:
Slot Machine   5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b     Trad, TR, 1 pitch, 60'   
Jam On!   5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b     Trad, TR, 1 pitch, 40'   
Stinky Americans   5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a     Trad, TR, 1 pitch, 60'   
The Golden Dream   5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a     Trad, TR, 1 pitch, 70'   
Fickle Fingers   5.10a/b 6a+ 19 VI+ 19 E2 5b     Trad, TR, 1 pitch, 70'   
Barndance, a.k.a. Crankmaster T's Arete   5.12 7b+ 27 VIII+ 26 E6 6b X     TR, 1 pitch, 70'   
Browse More Rock Climbing Classics in s. The Golden Wall

Featured Route For s. The Golden Wall
Rock Climbing Photo: Fickle Fingers

Fickle Fingers 5.10a/b 6a+ 19 VI+ 19 E2 5b  New York : The Gunks : ... : s. The Golden Wall
Face/finger-crack climb followed by double roof. Two cruxes - mid-height, and very long reach through roofs....[more]   Browse More Classics in New York

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