REI Community
Creek Side
Routes Sorted
L to R R to L Alpha
100 Proof S 
Are There Bolts Up There? T 
Big Bro's Watchin' (AKA: Luebben Memorial Route) T 
Black Gold S 
Brennivin T,S 
Clown Loach (temporary name) T,S 
Crackside T 
Crackside Direct (var.) T 
Creek Dance S 
Creek Nation S 
Creekafixion S 
Fish and Chips S 
Fish Bowl S 
Fool's Gold S 
Furlough Day S 
Golden Hammer, The S 
Guppy S 
Labor Day S 
Left of Corner S 
Little Sister S 
Macho Borracho S 
Oyster Bar, The S 
Playin' Hooky S 
Project S 
Psychotic Love T 
Rhett Wench S 
Rumpleminze aka Drillin' the Bush S 
Shenanigans S 
Solid Gold T,S 
Spun Gold S 
Under the Influence S 
Unknown Big Black Flake T,S 
Winterfest S 

The Golden Hammer 

YDS: 5.12a French: 7a+ Ewbanks: 25 UIAA: VIII+ ZA: 25 British: E5 6a

Type:  Sport, 4 pitches, 450'
Original:  YDS: 5.12a French: 7a+ Ewbanks: 25 UIAA: VIII+ ZA: 25 British: E5 6a [details]
FA: Eric Schmeer & Chip Nakagawa
New Route: Yes
Page Views: 3,006
Submitted By: AOSR on Oct 28, 2013

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (6)
Your todo list:
Your stars:
Your rating: -none- [change]
Your ticklist: [add new tick]
Your opinion of this PAGE:    [0 people like this page.]
Jug! Photo by Chip Nakagawa.

Seasonal Raptor Closures MORE INFO >>>


P1. Climb the first two pitches of Solid Gold in one long, fun slab pitch. Belay at the first large ledge stretching a single 70m or simul past two more bolts to a second large ledge, 5.8.

P2. Climb past the solid gold anchor, clip the first bolt of Spun Gold, and then traverse right on three bolts to the anchors on the face below the Golden Hammer roof, 5.8.

P3. Climb the face traversing left after a few moves on a slopey rail and then fire the roof through the crux to an amazing jug with a tricky mantle about 400 feet off the ground! 5.12-.

P4. Belay above the roof under a slightly overhanging arete. Climb fun, reachy big holds past a few bolts to a crux at the very top of the cliff band involving thin moves to a jug. After you gain the ledge, either move left to the Spun Gold anchor (recommended) or climb past one more bolt up and slightly right to another anchor. Cleaning is easy from either, 5.11.


There are tons of rap options from the top. The easiest is to rap from the Spun Gold anchor to the anchor on the Playin' Hooky slab, then to the ledge, and then one more to the awkward hanging belay on the first slab pitch.


About 20 draws or so to lead the first two pitches as one. A long sling or two are nice for the last belay.

Per Monty: A 70m rope is required to rappel from the top of the route to the anchor in the middle of the slab on Playin Hooky. Watch the ends! It is possible to rap the route with a single 60m if you tram in and use intermediate anchors

Comments on The Golden Hammer Add Comment
Show which comments
By Monty
From: Golden, CO
Oct 28, 2013

This is a fine addition to Creekside and shouldn't be missed! The rock under the roof on P3 is slightly crumbly but will clean up quickly with traffic. With the proper armory, it is possible to link P3 and 4 for an arm numbing lead. Just as good as Solid Gold but with a sweet roof and headwall!
By Kevin Capps
From: Golden, CO
Nov 3, 2013
rating: 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b

I jumped on this rig today. Excellent climbing pulling over the roof, and the last pitch is one of the best on the whole wall. I will say the mantel move before the roof is a bit reachy (not sure how a shorty would do it) and the rock is just a bit crumbly below the roof. I think the roof pitch is 12b and the last pitch is 11d. Great job, guys, nice addition!
From: Wherever we park!
Feb 9, 2014

Awesome, Kevin! I've seen someone quite a bit shorter than 6' pull the mantle, it's one of my favorite parts of the route! Thanks for the rating confirmation. That upper band is bullet - solid, solid gold indeed. Love this cliff!
By Geoff U
From: Centennial, CO
Apr 11, 2016
rating: 5.12- 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a

Beware rappelling - a 60 m barely got us to the slab below but not near any anchor or bolt, so we had to traverse unprotected (not my fav). Also, seems like a hold may have broke on the last pitch? Really hard for 11d....
From: Wherever we park!
Apr 11, 2016

Geoff, where did you rap from? A 60 is more than enough to get down if you don't skip any of the intermediate anchors. There's the anchors at the belay of the 5.12 pitch and also anchors lower and to the right on the Playin' Hooky slab.

The last pitch is not a gimme!

Mountain Project

The Definitive Climbing Resource

MTB Project

Next Generation MTB Trail Maps

Powder Project

Backcountry Ski Maps & Secret Stashes
FREE Stickers · Gyms · RSS · School of Rock · Contact · About