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s. The Golden Wall
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Barndance, a.k.a. Crankmaster T's Arete TR 
Chris' Cringe or Hatti's Horror TR 
Completely Francois TR 
Fickle Fingers T,TR 
Golden Dream, The T,TR 
Jam On! T,TR 
Sinister Urge (formerly SLAM Dance) T 
Slot Machine T,TR 
Stinky Americans T,TR 
Super Skink TR 
Time for Therapy T,TR 

The Golden Dream 

YDS: 5.9 French: 5c Ewbanks: 17 UIAA: VI ZA: 17 British: HVS 5a

Type:  Trad, TR, 1 pitch, 70'
Original:  YDS: 5.9+ French: 5c Ewbanks: 17 UIAA: VI ZA: 17 British: E1 5a [details]
Page Views: 11,446
Submitted By: Taino Grosjean on Dec 20, 2006

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (132)
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Directly above the dihedral


A fully-sustained fingercrack in a dihedral, that starts off just barely slab and ends up just barely overhanging. THE best 5.9 I've ever climbed. Also, the climb on the cover of the Peterskill guide.


Climb the fingercrack in the obvious left-facing dihedral on the right end of the Golden Wall alcove. Easy to walk off.


G-rated - it's a sustained fingercrack. There is a double-bolted anchor at the top.

Photos of The Golden Dream Slideshow Add Photo
Rock Climbing Photo: Nearing the top.
Nearing the top.
Rock Climbing Photo: Setting up on top!
Setting up on top!
Rock Climbing Photo: Great lead up an awesome corner.
Great lead up an awesome corner.
Rock Climbing Photo: Golden Dream from the top of Skink
BETA PHOTO: Golden Dream from the top of Skink
Rock Climbing Photo: Stuart Koonce having fun.
Stuart Koonce having fun.
Rock Climbing Photo: Golden Dream
BETA PHOTO: Golden Dream

Comments on The Golden Dream Add Comment
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Comments displayed oldest to newestSkip Ahead to the Most Recent Dated Aug 18, 2017
By Jasonn
Dec 28, 2009

This is the best dihedral I have climbed in a while!
By gblauer Blauer
From: Wayne, PA
Aug 30, 2010

Truly G-rated. I am a nimrod for not leading this climb. It's beautiful, sustained and eats gear from bottom to top. Super climb.
By AWinters
From: NH
Nov 24, 2010

very worthy indeed
By BrianRH
From: Jersey City, NJ
Jun 23, 2011

A rare treat for the Gunks where high quality "G" climb are relatively rare. If only it were longer.
By Anthony Nguyen
From: Philadelphia
Nov 18, 2011

Beautiful climb that makes the Golden Wall worth revisiting from time to time.
By Logan Schiff
From: Brooklyn, NY
Jul 14, 2013
rating: 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a

Great climb. Obviously G, and easy to place gear at the crux, but was pretty pumpy placing gear in the last twenty feet or so.
By Alex Jacques
From: Burlington, CT
Jul 19, 2014
rating: 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c

this is not sustained, despite popular belief. short and fun.
By cliffmama
Apr 25, 2017

A great G-rated lead, but you can also scramble up the trail to the right of the climb to get to the top where there are 2 bolts for use as an anchor. But you'll have to bring your own slings/lockers to set up an extended top rope anchor, as there are no chains.
By Gunkiemike
Apr 26, 2017

To be more precise - there are no chains on any bolted anchors anywhere at PK.
By G Koro
Jul 17, 2017

After setting up a top rope anchor, is it best to walk off? Seems hard to get into a repelling position.
By Gunkiemike
Jul 22, 2017

If you set the TR so that the powerpoint is no more than a foot or so below the edge, it shouldn't be too hard to downclimb a couple moves so your partner can then lower you. Lacking a partner at the bottom OTOH does make for a difficult rap. Make sure your autoblock is working (!) and consider lowering yourself (rapping, batmanning etc) off a tether of some sort for the first few feet. Extending your rap device in the modern way will certainly make this even more problematic.
By Nolan Huther
From: Clarkson University
Aug 18, 2017
rating: 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a

Not to be missed by any connoisseur of crack-in-a-corner climbing, a must lead for any climber of this grade

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