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Mt. Gardiner
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Golden Bear Tower - Polemonium, The T 

The Golden Bear Tower - Polemonium 

YDS: 5.10a French: 6a Ewbanks: 18 UIAA: VI+ ZA: 18 British: E1 5a

Type:  Trad, Alpine, 9 pitches, 1500', Grade IV
Original:  YDS: 5.10a French: 6a Ewbanks: 18 UIAA: VI+ ZA: 18 British: E1 5a [details]
FA: Vitaliy Musiyenko and Chaz Langelier
New Route: Yes
Season: Spring, Summer, Fall
Page Views: 620
Submitted By: SirTobyThe3rd on Aug 4, 2016

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The climb is a very fun moderate sustained with 5.8-9 pitches and a few 5.9+ to 5.10- cruxes. This climb is enjoyable and has incredible views from the summit.


1. Climb up from the low point of the buttress following good cracks over a few overhangs and a belay a full rope out. 5.9 180 feet

2. Climb over a short corner and overhang (5.8) and scramble up 4th-5th class following the crest of the ridge till you run out of rope. Good belay ledge. 190 5.8

3) Climb straight up following good cracks and corners, slightly right, up slightly wider cracks. Belay on top of that on a good ledge. 140 ft 5.8

4) Climb into a cool looking fingercrack right facing corner through a handcrack in a bulge and slightly left and up a variety of cool moderate cracks. There will be another tricky overhang guarding the belay ledge. 180 ft 5.10-

5. Climb up and slightly right up cracks. Traverse slightly left into a prominent dark right facing corner with a cool splitter up the middle. You can traverse into the splitter from about midway up the corner, after placing a #1 cam. Top out the corner and belay on a huge ledge to the left side of it. 180 5.10-

6. Walk left into the big right facing corner and climb it to the top, traversing left and over an overhang into an obvious crack. Follow the flowers and belay at a good ledge. 130 ft 5.9+

7. Climb over a few cool thin cracks and face holds. Short chimney. Crest the ridge and follow that for as long as you wish. Full rope 5.9

8. Simul climb or pitch out to the summit, with a 5.9 splitter crack to the top! 200+ ft 5.9

"If Fred Beckey climbed it back in the day it would be in the 50 classics!"
Yes, it would. :)


NW Face of Mt. Gardiner. Prominent tower in the middle of the face.

Descent: Scramble, simul or pitch out the 4th class exposed ridge for a few hundred feet. From there, follow the ridge-line staying on the south side towards Gardiner pass. Descent that back to camp.


Standard rack with doubles from .3 to #3 camalots

Photos of The Golden Bear Tower - Polemonium Slideshow Add Photo
Rock Climbing Photo: Start of the route
Start of the route
Rock Climbing Photo: Route overlay
BETA PHOTO: Route overlay
Rock Climbing Photo: On the summit ridge
On the summit ridge
Rock Climbing Photo: Chaz on the end of the 3rd pitch
Chaz on the end of the 3rd pitch
Rock Climbing Photo: Summit ridge
Summit ridge
Rock Climbing Photo: Vitaliy on Pitch 5
Vitaliy on Pitch 5
Rock Climbing Photo: The 6 is not necessary :) pitch 4
The 6 is not necessary :) pitch 4
Rock Climbing Photo: Chaz on a fun 4th pitch
Chaz on a fun 4th pitch
Rock Climbing Photo: Outline
Rock Climbing Photo: Summit

Comments on The Golden Bear Tower - Polemonium Add Comment
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By Chris Owen
From: Big Bear Lake
Aug 9, 2016

Great post!

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