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Gold Standard, The S 
Let It Go S 
Lycra Eater T 

The Gold Standard 

YDS: 5.12a French: 7a+ Ewbanks: 25 UIAA: VIII+ ZA: 25 British: E5 6a

Type:  Sport, 45'
Original:  YDS: 5.12a French: 7a+ Ewbanks: 25 UIAA: VIII+ ZA: 25 British: E5 6a [details]
FA: J. Baldwin and M. Scullion, 11/23/2008.
Page Views: 184
Submitted By: John Steiger on Jul 12, 2017  with updates from Brian in SLC

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This is the south facing "cave" area on ...


Seven reddish-painted bolts protect this short but interesting overhanging route right of Lycra Eater. Start up Lycra Eater for a body-length until the first bolt can be reached on the right. Surmount the roof (crux), clip three more bolts then step left (at the route's 4th bolt) to climb steeper and better rock to the last bulge. Here we finished the climb by moving left to ring anchors just over the lip, which seemed awkward; it may be better to turn the bulge and continue up a slab to the past a tan-painted bolt to another set of ring anchors maybe 25 feet higher (you can’t see them, but they’re there). Also, there is a bolt that appears off-route left of the sixth bolt; we didn’t try to use it (maybe it’s for a variation off of Lycra Eater?). Grade may be height-dependent.


See Lycra Eater, and Spencer's photo reproduced on this page showing the route in yellow.


Nine draws, unless you continue up the slab -- then take a few more and maybe some gear.

Photos of The Gold Standard Slideshow Add Photo
Rock Climbing Photo: Preparing to clean the route from the lower set of...
Preparing to clean the route from the lower set of...
Rock Climbing Photo: Jeff Baldwin holding plenty in reserve as he loads...
BETA PHOTO: Jeff Baldwin holding plenty in reserve as he loads...

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By Brian in SLC
From: Sandy, Utah
Aug 2, 2017

The Gold Standard. FA Jeff Baldwin belayed and followed by Matt Scullion 23 November 2008. 5.12a was the consensus on that day...

By John Steiger
Aug 4, 2017

Thanks for the info Brian. No quibble from me as to the grade, so I'll go with the FA rating; maybe the higher grade will be more seductive.
By Ryan Arnold
Aug 12, 2017

Seems like there are two ways through the crux after the second bolt: straight up the face with a left hand crimper at V-hard, or veer right to the large chalked-up but chossy sidepulls. Option 1 seemed more legit for the route, but harder than 12a (best I could tell; I couldn't do the move). Upper half of the route was enjoyable.

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