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The Gold Shut Route 

YDS: 5.10b French: 6a+ Ewbanks: 19 UIAA: VII- ZA: 19 British: E2 5b

Type:  Sport, 1 pitch
Original:  YDS: 5.10b French: 6a+ Ewbanks: 19 UIAA: VII- ZA: 19 British: E2 5b [details]
FA: unpublished
Page Views: 840
Submitted By: Richard M. Wright on Jan 3, 2002

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (19)
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BETA PHOTO: The crack to the left of the rope is where you can...


This little gem lies immediately right of Nine To Five and poses an interesting technical problem. The route can be done as left and right variations with some variance in grade. This is a good problem and always worth a burn.


Three draws and a rope.

Photos of The Gold Shut Route Slideshow Add Photo
Rock Climbing Photo: Some of the possibilities on this route. Far to cl...
BETA PHOTO: Some of the possibilities on this route. Far to cl...
Rock Climbing Photo: Koko, pulling into the crux.
Koko, pulling into the crux.
Rock Climbing Photo: The right side of the route.  Only the last bolt i...
The right side of the route. Only the last bolt i...

Comments on The Gold Shut Route Add Comment
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By Dave Clark 5.10
From: Golden, CO
Feb 3, 2010
rating: 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b

Nice, pumpy, short route. Good rock with solid holds. A bit tenuous as a fall just before bolt 2 could put you near a ground impact, and there's a pretty good runout (but easier climbing) from bolt 3 to the anchors. Can lead the 5.8 crack trad to the left ("Mechanically Inept", not listed on this site) to access the top anchors. Gold Shut rating depends on where you climb left to right. Left of bolts is way hard (too hard for me to rate), just right of bolts is probably 11a, and further right is maybe 10a.
By Noah McKelvin
From: Colorado Springs
Jul 29, 2010
rating: 5.12- 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a

I took the "left" variation staying on line and a little to the left of the bolts and it was harder then 11a. It gives you not good feet and a couple crimps. Balancy and technical. But the moves are fun! Try it! Watch out not to deck. It's a bit of a runout from the 3rd bolt to the anchor.

You can make this as hard as you want really. But it's not a 10 unless you take the far right side. 11a to the right and 12- I would say for the left.
By Jay Eggleston
From: Denver
Jan 9, 2017
rating: 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b

I agree with the above comments about the rating. "Mechanically Inept" is listed on this site. Above the third bolt you can place a small cam if you have one. It's good the route "gold shuts" have been replaced but the anchor still has them.
By Benjamin Chapman
From: Small Town, USA
Jan 16, 2017

"Gold Shut" sounds short, pumpy, balancy, and technical. Very intriguing.

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