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The Gold Card 

YDS: 5.12a French: 7a+ Ewbanks: 25 UIAA: VIII+ ZA: 25 British: E5 6a PG13

   
Type:  Trad, Alpine, 1 pitch, 90'
Original:  YDS: 5.12a French: 7a+ Ewbanks: 25 UIAA: VIII+ ZA: 25 British: E5 6a PG13 [details]
FA: David Fay
New Route: Yes
Season: June-September
Page Views: 475
Submitted By: David F. on Sep 25, 2014

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David Fay on the first ascent.

Description 

The Gold Card Direct starts at the same place as The Gold Card Indirect and takes the striking line up the center of the main wall for a full 30 meter pitch. Climb through golden, bulletproof granite using a mix of crack and face technique. At mid-height, place a few bomber pieces, and then step up into the dihedral. Work out what parts of the crack to use for gear and what parts to use for your fingers. Consider fishing in a nut above your head before committing to the hard climbing. Smear, layback, and stem up the dihedral. Clip the fixed piton, and make a delicate move left before the roof.

This route was originally climbed in the headpoint style of rehearsing all of the moves and gear on top rope before getting on the sharp end.

Location 

Lower off fixed carabiners.

Protection 

Standard double rack of cams and a good set of nuts (BD #8).


Photos of The Gold Card Slideshow Add Photo
Rock Climbing Photo: David Fay on the first ascent.
David Fay on the first ascent.

Comments on The Gold Card Add Comment
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By Josh Janes
General Admin
Sep 26, 2014

Is calling this Gold Card Indirect a typo?
By Christopher Barlow
Sep 27, 2014

I think it is a typo. Direct/Indirect start on the same 50 or so feet of climbing, then the Indirect steps left. I thought David had two different names for the routes, but I guess he went with this. Organizationally, it might be easier to just have "Gold Card" as the main line and "Gold Card Indirect" for the left, easier version.
By Rob Dillon
Sep 27, 2014

I liked 'Walk of Shame', but that's a lot of name for a 20-foot variation.
By David F.
Nov 18, 2014

Thanks for noting that, Josh, I have fixed the typo, and Chris, I agree having this route be 'Gold Card' and the other 20 ft variation be 'Gold Card Indirect' will be more clear. These lines are quite obvious once you walk up to the wall.