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Godfather Boulder
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The Godfather 

Hueco: V4 Font: 6B

Type:  Boulder, 15'
Original:  Hueco: V4 Font: 6B [details]
FA: David Groth
Season: Spring, summer, fall
Page Views: 7,665
Submitted By: JJ Schlick on Nov 21, 2006

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (87)
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JJ discussing business with the Godfather.


This classic line was first cleaned and bouldered by Dave Groth in the mid eighties. Early repeats by John Sherman and Eric Zschiesche, during their Stone Crusade tour in the 90's.

This tall, steep, beautiful problem hosts an awesome series of side pull and gaston pockets. The movement flows well with a wide selection of footholds, and positive handholds while steadily growing harder until the lip which sports a rather thoughtful mantle. It aint over until you're standing up.


It is high and the landing slopes. Several pads are nice.

Photos of The Godfather Slideshow Add Photo
Rock Climbing Photo: John K high up on the Godfather, Dec. 13th 2008
John K high up on the Godfather, Dec. 13th 2008
Rock Climbing Photo: This line is a real attention getter.  Marley and ...
This line is a real attention getter. Marley and ...
Rock Climbing Photo: Rick topping out on The Godfather
Rick topping out on The Godfather
Rock Climbing Photo: Spring time ascent
Spring time ascent
Rock Climbing Photo: Ian taking a break from filming to give it a go.
Ian taking a break from filming to give it a go.
Rock Climbing Photo: Kelsen.
Rock Climbing Photo: Jay low on the Godfather.  Great line.  Great boul...
Jay low on the Godfather. Great line. Great boul...
Rock Climbing Photo: Great problem
Great problem
Rock Climbing Photo: Straight on
Straight on
Rock Climbing Photo: Godfather goes up near the far left end.
Godfather goes up near the far left end.

Comments on The Godfather Add Comment
Show which comments
By Remo
From: Madison, WI
Jun 9, 2007

This is an excellent problem. One of my new Wisconsin favorites.
By Brian Pederson
Dec 11, 2007

FYI to Jeremy S. thanks for the work on this boulder. I believe i am the first accentionist in recent years, september 2006. Doesn't matter to me too much. I try to remain behind the scene. Other routes in that area i've done also, they are unnamed but good quality. The names placed on the boulder, the routes are good and no need to change them! Let us all enjoy the little gems scattered across our state.
Brian Pederson
By Jay Knower
From: Campton, NH
Dec 11, 2007

I think Paul Jones may have done this problem as early as 1996 or 7. I remember him telling me about it.
By David A Groth
From: Lacrosse
Mar 20, 2008

I cleaned this boulder in 1989 and did the godfather the same day. I remember doing 5 or 6 problems on this boulder. I told Eric Z and John Sherman about it and they sent it on there stone crusade tour.

Dave Groth
By JJ Schlick
From: Flagstaff, AZ
Aug 19, 2008

Thanx Dave for chiming in...

Well, throughout the history of bouldering in this country I would hate to have to guess at the number of "re-first-ascents" that have taken place... And I am sure I am as guilty as anyone. However, I had no misgivings about the Godfather. When posting this area, I called the prominent line the "Godfather" in tribute to Dave Groth's efforts throughout the heartland. It is a nickname he endures I am sure, but never the less it was an attempt to honor those who taught me, and I knew he had fired the thing a long time ago, cause he told me so and how to find it. I also stated in the general overview of Box Canyon that these things were done back in the eighties...

And for that matter, between Dave, Eric Z., and Sherman, every hold on this boulder was probably at one time scrubbed clean and chalked. Lichen grows fast back there in Wisconsin, in case you haven't been around long enough to see this fact first hand.
By Chris treggE
From: Madison, WI
Jan 18, 2009
rating: V4 6B

Good history lesson and lesson in FA's Dave and JJ.

Sweaty- change it to 4 stars and keep the unanimous vote going!! Come on dude!

On another note, I looked at this boulder and problem in late summer '07 (was alone with one pad) and chickened out after seeing the height & landing. In April '08 I returned after going to JT and geting on White Rasatafarian. Suddenly it didn't look so tall and the landing looked downright fluffy... So hop on it, great line, great boulder. Spring can't come soon enough...
By sweatpants
From: Broomfield, CO
Jan 23, 2009
rating: V4 6B

You can't tell me what to do!...
By Brian Pederson
Jan 18, 2010

Thanks Dave for straightening out the facts! somehow i new you or eric or john had been on this boulder as soon as i looked at it. Im glad i rediscovered much of the bouldering that has found its way on this site, im glad someone has documented all the routes i've enjoyed and talked about, but didn't take the time to note. I hope you are still crankn after all these years, may we cross paths again!
By Matt Haig
From: Bishop, California
Aug 21, 2013

REALLY enjoyed this line!

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