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The Godfather Boulder

Routes Sorted
L to R R to L Alpha
As Wicked As It Seems S 
Godfather 1 S 
Godfather 2 S 
Ol' Roer 714, The S 
Umpalumpa Humpachu S 

The Godfather Boulder Rock Climbing 

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Elevation: 5,000'
Page Views: 2,905
Administrators: Mike Snyder, Kristine Hoffman (sitewide)
Submitted By: DavidHH on Jul 26, 2009
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BETA PHOTO: Godfather Boulder (August 2015)


Most of the limestone we climb on in Ten Sleep Canyon is Big Horn Dolomite and the Madison tends to be chossy and crumbly. This boulder however, is an absolute stellar chunk of Madison limestone sitting in the forest. This is a great area in the summer since the sun really doesn't come around until late afternoon. Routes are all very good, climbing is juggy and overhanging, makes you ride the pump to the chains. Route from left to right are

Umpalumpa Humpachu .10a
Godfather 1 .10c
Godfather 2 .11a
As Wicked As It Seems .12a
The Ol' Roer 714 .10d

Getting There 

These directions are assuming you are heading out of Ten Sleep on Rt. 16 towards Buffalo,WY. Make a right on old road 435. You will pass a campground on your right, then the fish hatchery and a former forest service campground on your left, the road then turns a hard right. Follow after the hard right maybe 200' and you are making a hard left up a switchback, park in the pullout on the left side of this switchback,(see photo). Walk down 20' or so and you will see a trail on the opposite side of the road from where you parked. The trail splits about 20' into it and you take the right path. Go down 500'
or so and you will come to the river, cross it and follow a good trail up for about 10-15 minutes. You will walk right into this boulder it's hard to miss.

Climbing Season

Weather station 6.1 miles from here

5 Total Climbing Routes

['4 Stars',0],['3 Stars',3],['2 Stars',1],['1 Star',1],['Bomb',0]

Classic Climbing Routes in The Godfather Boulder

Mountain Project's determination of the classic, most popular, highest rated climbing routes for The Godfather Boulder:
Umpalumpa Humpachu   5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a     Sport, 1 pitch, 50'   
Godfather 1   5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b     Sport, 1 pitch, 60'   
Godfather 2   5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c     Sport, 60'   
Browse More Rock Climbing Classics in The Godfather Boulder

Featured Route For The Godfather Boulder
Rock Climbing Photo: Mid route.

Godfather 1 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b  Wyoming : Ten Sleep Canyon : ... : The Godfather Boulder
This route is sweetness! We thought this route was in the 15-20 degree overhanging range. All on jugs with a final crux right at the last bolt where you slap around the corner until you find yet another jug. Good thing the fall is super safe from here. ...[more]   Browse More Classics in Wyoming

Photos of The Godfather Boulder Slideshow Add Photo
Rock Climbing Photo: The parking area, if you look close enough off the...
BETA PHOTO: The parking area, if you look close enough off the...
Rock Climbing Photo: You will have to cross the river plan accordingly....
BETA PHOTO: You will have to cross the river plan accordingly....
Rock Climbing Photo: The boulder seen from the trail.
BETA PHOTO: The boulder seen from the trail.

Comments on The Godfather Boulder Add Comment
Show which comments
By Emerson Takahashi
From: Casper, WY
Sep 12, 2016
Really reminds me of the cobble climbing in Maple Canyon, great routes on this one!
By Luke Bertelsen
From: Tucson, AZ
Oct 3, 2016
A really fun wall if you want a break from the longer climbs of Tensleep. None of these routes are 60 ft. in length as mentioned in most of the descriptions. More like 45 ft.

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